2010 pre 42000 ...alternator

[dtoots1]

i'm baaaack...
question is...1103076 63amp delco alternator 12v neg....date 9c23...
does this have a volt regulator inside it??? wiring harness does have diode on it from the post on the alt....not sure if it has to have it....
do not have it started yet but do not want to burn up distr...pts etc...been there done that!....had to rebuild distr cause key switch bad and did not shut electric off....left juice to alt/coil etc....burnt wire right down to nothing and distr guts...sure hope it didnt ruin the rebuilt alternator....will find that out down the road for sure....

o course it is a gas job 63 2010 dozer

testing this out with a key switch off lawn tractor....Lavoy do u have any key switches for this unit???..how much for one if u got....? .may not need it as not using the idiot lites on it and looks like starter safety switch is bypassed and oil pressure gauge direct mounted to engine block output...no hour meter

thanks dtoots1...akron ohio

[Lavoy]

Should have diesel switch on hand, would have to check on gas.
Lavoy

[gregjo1948]

I believe there is a regulator inside and I think if you don't use a diode the engine might not shut down when you turn it off. gregjo1948

[jtrichard]

pic would be most beneficial then i can tell you in an instant

[dtoots1]

o.k. here is rest of story....alt does have a volt reg in it....and harness does have a diode on it...
my tech says to run wire from kill switch tab and resistor in line just before running wire to coil...then the wire from the alt with diode on it also goes to the + side of the coil...

my nephew thinks i need another wire run to the coil from the ignition switch.. we did hAVE it running but burnt out resistor and died..dont know if was wiring problem of if i had dropped resistor before installing and cracked it...i remember dropping a box of something but not sure which piece now was a bit excited to get her to lite up...which we actually literally did as had a gas leak had to get extinguisher out for that!!!!!!!no harm done tho kinda got the ol heart beat up!!

[jtrichard]

this works with a universal Key/Start switch and has the hot start....
you fried the resistor because (it sounds like from what i read in your post) hooking the ALT to the + on the coil was charging back through the resistor

[dtoots1]

jt....from ur pics.....looks like tech telling me wrongly.....he says diode wire shd go directly to + coil.....pics show to ign switch.....does have ign switch wire with resistor to + coil....i do notice another wire from the + coil to starter on the r terminal.....not sure that i have an r terminal on the starter as no wire from the + coil there...
the pics shown on the jdc site for the alternator hookup appears to have a volt regulator outside of the alternator so is additional hookups..
these dang starters on hard to get to for these terminals underneath this thing so will have to look closely....when i took starter off it only had 2 wires plus the bat cable...course i do not know what anyone else did.....

i did notice in harness what appears to be a brown wire totally burnt up but did not appear to go to the starter as was not in that harness

will try to hoop up this way if i have an r term post on starter!!!!!!!

thanks for all the help from alllllllll

dtoots1

[dtoots1]

jt.....,ok...so now the question is which tab on the ignition switch does the diode wire go to....i have the pink wire on the kill side tab..which has the resistor on that wire to the coil....,the other tab is the initiator to the starter and am wondering do i have resistor on wrong tab as it dont make sense to hook diode to same tab as resistor line....or does resistor line go to the initiator starter tab and the diode go to the kill tab on the switch???????

something needs to make sense of this...just going to the switch dont tell me jack...orig switch has 7 tabs temp only has 5 tabs...come off the old wheel horse lawn tractor which had lites etc....

thks
dtoots1

[jtrichard]

The hot start wire is NOT required it just helps with starting especially in cold weather as it bypasses the resistor to put full voltage to the coil ONLY when cranking ... i don't know what this KILL tab is that you are talking about ... i would just go to NAPA or any other parts store and get a universal KEY/STARTER switch and hook it up and be done with it as in the pic i put up it uses 3 hookups Batt,ING.and Start ....there could be 4 on a new universal switch the 4th will be ACC. NOT needed on a crawler thats for things like a radio ect. YES your Tech is WRONG with what you have ....IF you had a coil with a built in resistor then you could hook the ALT. to the + BUT if you had the JD switch it would NOT work as the JD switch has a resistor built into it.... with anything hooked to the + ter. on the coil you will only get 6 VOLTS and only a few AMPS before the resistor Fries

[dtoots1]

jt....ok...what i call the kill switch is the 2 tabs on the switch that literally turn the power on....1 is bat term...other turns power on..,.3rd tab is the extra power to the starter or what i term the initiator wire cause once u release the key it only contacts is the bat and power keys, i assume that is the HOT wire (extra power to the starter )u refer to.which goes to the starter from the key switch..once key is off it shuts that power tab (#2 tab) off which kills the engine...

so from the pic it looks like both wire hook to the 3rd tab for the initiating sequence and then reverts back to power from the (kill switch) portion which provides power to the coil till that is turned off....ie..the initiator tab to the starter only gets power when trying to turn the starter over for firing engine and that would be where the diode wire would need to be powered from...only on the starting sequence? or does it require power as soon as u turn the key on???which means it is powered until the switch is turned off and kills the engine.

hope i aint confusing anything..think i will just go with ur pic and see what happens, run the extra wires etc...,,.

thks
dtoots1

[jtrichard]

the diode wire has to have power all the time the machine is running and not powered when its off ...the diode (acts like a check valve) keeps the power from that wire from feeding the coil and not letting the machine shut off... the 3 terminals on a standard switch are 1.. battery 2..ignition /power to coil when switch is on 3.. start /only powered when you turn the key to the spring loaded part of the switch all 3 connect at that time ....but only batt and ign. connect when the switch is in the ON position

[dtoots1]

jt.......that is what i was trying to say...that pic is very good detail and makes it a bit easier to relate the issues...
what i was relating the key switch to is a in line kill switch....only 2 tabs on it and is either on or off....which is what the 1 and 2 tab positions on the key switch do.

anywho will finish wiring to ammeter and get er done...,

next trip going to be tending to adjusting clutch while tis up in air and steering to be checked out...have adjusted them already but not tested yet

thanks again
dtoots1