installing steering clutch

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:16 am

Are there any tips that would help to reconnect the foot brake lever rod in the steering clutch compartment? This is the clevis end that has a pin and washer on it--seems to impossible to get at with my old fingers. thanks

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:19 am

I am a little confused, so need more info. Do you mean the long brake rod coming back from the brake shaft? Do you have the final drive off?
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 12:58 pm

thats the rod he is talking about they are a BIT*H

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:58 pm

Then I am still confused, my fingers don't work that well, but never had a problem of any sort. Only thing I have ever had to do was squeeze the yoke together a little if I didn't do so before install.
Lavoy

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:44 pm

Yes that is the long rod going forward to the foot brake pedal. Would it be better to disconnect this rod at the front pin to get more room to work in the steering clutch area? Try to hook this up first or last? Any help is appreciated. thanks

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:47 pm

And I do not have the final drive removed--have installed the steering clutch and shafts and are ready to put on upper casting with the steering lever and hook everything up inside.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:41 pm

i be-live you can get more room to put the pin in the brake rod if you unhook the other end ..... you need the front end unhooked anyway to do the final adjustment properly... a word of advise get the longest cotter pin you can for the left brake rod front it also is a royal pain in the as*..... on one of my 2010s someone brazed small washers edge wise on the head end of the clevis pins that works kinda like a handle that helps a lot .... the left pin is different as it has the cotter pin hole in the center ITS REAL FUN if you braze a washer on it be careful not to get any brass on the "pin" area if that makes any sense

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:14 am

Well color me stupid, I am getting more and more confused. There is no way to work on that rod with the final drive still installed other than connecting the adjustable yoke to the brake shaft. Even if the final drive is removed, that rod has no real relationship to the steering clutches as far as creating or taking away room.
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:48 am

Lavoy one thing that maybe confusing you is he did not say what he is working on and i did know what he has..... I be-live you are thinking 1010/350? his is a 2010 and that rod has the slot in the yoke and it is under the steering lever cover/casting and quite hard to get to ... on one of mine that i bought with left clutch froze there had been so much water in the box that the pin we are talking about was froze in the arm i had to take a torch and burn both ends of the clevis pin off and spread the yoke and the rod got bent in the processes so after the cover was off i got to straighten all of that back up ..such FUN

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:05 am

Yes I am doing a 2010 loader--I had quite a time getting this brake shaft apart and am not looking forward to reconnecting it. Am I to understand that the three clips on the levers of the clutch pressure plate are not really necessary? They were in the bottom of the compartment when I removed the steering clutch. thanks again

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 7:26 pm

That explains it, JT hit it right on the head, thanks.
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:14 pm

it did not hit me at first but then thinking about what you said about taking the final off i was like taking the final off that wont help get to that pin then bam ...it would on a 1010/350

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installing steering clutch

installing steering clutch

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