Folks:
The single hydraulic arm on my 1955 40C does not raise the blade as high as it might. At least 2" of the single piston arm is unused on a full lift because there is a stop pin that a collar hits and then stops the rise. The collar is all the way to one end. I can move the stop pin all the way to the cylinder. Is this the adjustment I should be making as the collar is all the way at the other end?
http://learningwithtechnology.org/1955-40c/
There's an "X" bracing between the side arms connected to the blade. I'm worried about getting hung up on a stump with this rig ( my last one didn't have this as there was a hydraulic piston on each side). I can't lift the blade all the way, and even then, it's a concern.
Should I remove that "X" bracing? I'm afraid doing so might weaken the blade mount and cause damage if I pushed anything significant off-center.
Thanks!
40C hydraulic cylinder adjustment
- BradE
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:00 am
- Location: Northeast Kingdom of Vermont
40C hydraulic cylinder adjustment
JD 40C 4 roll 1955, snow tracks and sprockets from a 350
What you have on the cylinder is all you will get. If you want to get any more lift, you will have to get a cylinder with a shorter collapsed length, but then you will lose dig depth most likely
No, don't remove the cross bracing, it is there for a reason.
If you want a blade with no braces and higher lift, you need to find a different blade, a #61 blade is a good blade, it just doesn't lit high or dig deep.
Lavoy
No, don't remove the cross bracing, it is there for a reason.
If you want a blade with no braces and higher lift, you need to find a different blade, a #61 blade is a good blade, it just doesn't lit high or dig deep.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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