Gearmatic WinchDrum 8A Questions

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 5:15 am

Hi,

You have to upload your photos elsewhere, like to photobucket. Then, copy the link into a post.

Here is a link to a thread about how to do it:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=3690

Stan

RacinJason · Post by **RacinJason** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 7:44 am

I think someone posted some info on their homemade controller, using 2 brake master cylinders. My winch is beyond needing a controller, as it seems to be missing many parts. I have adapted a 2" receiver to mount on the towbar, so I could use my 8000# electric winch if I needed to. The winch is mounted on a Harbor Freight 2" Hitch Mount, which I normally use on a 3 Point hitch trailer mover attachment for my Yanmar.

notmeu · Post by **notmeu** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 12:06 pm

Paul Buhler wrote:Notmeu is our new resident expert - he's really tearing his winches apart.

Tom: I'd like to see some pictures of your clutch spider and shaft and hear any thoughts you have on its removal. I've never removed mine, and I think it may be a "next" project so I can get better clutch adjustments. Thanks.
BTW, I sent you a PM earlier. Paul

Well Paul here is some photos for you. The clutch spider was a royal pain to remove from the drive shaft. It took lots of heat from a rosebud, there is 2 Jack bolts to help lift the spider off but I had to use a gear puller along with the Jack bolts and heat. It took a total of 4 days to remove it because the spider and shaft would get too hot and when everything expands production comes to a screeching hault.

A pre-disassembly photo.

Bare winch drum with no internals. Never mind the paint colors, I was running low on yellow so I started using green for parts that will not be seen internally.

Winch mount all rebuilt and ready for the winch.

All of the bearings and seals I needed I crossed the old numbers for the newer part numbers and I purchased everything thru ebay as new old stock. The bearings I used are all NTN brand. I also had to enlarge most of the clutch adjustment holes to the next biggest size since all of the bolts were rusted solid. Up next relining the clutch and brake, the metals are still good and solid, I may use the clutch and brake lining from McMaster-Carr or I may have a professional do it. It does not seem hard to bond the lining to metal. Paul, the only thing that I can see that would give you better clutch adjustment is if there is a buildup of rust around the clutch bands. Which I did had a lot of... I hope this helps! A couple more photos here: http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... hp?t=10293

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 6:09 pm

I am going to get a batch of winch parts made up again. In next couple weeks, I will have brake return springs, spring adjusting nuts, and the clutch fluid nipples done if all goes well. Looking at making the clutch slave cylinders too if not too outrageous.
Lavoy

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:20 am

Tom: Thanks for posting your winch pictures and explanations. In my case, I think that the splines on my spider are worn, which allows it and the clutch bands to skew somewhat, causing the clutch to grab at unexpected times. I've set the gap to .020 which seems to be helping with this problem. As stated earlier, this will be an "in the future" project. Your comments and pictures give me a better idea of what to expect. Best wishes as you complete your rebuild.

Anyone have any thoughts on how best to "shim" my splines if in fact my hypothesis is correct?

Tom, another thought: I drilled my clutch adjusting bolts with two holes running through adjacent faces. This allowed me to use the retaining pins as shown in the manual, and still tweak adjustments and know that they would stay in place.

Paul

RacinJason · Post by **RacinJason** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:13 am

Paul, it's been a long time since I was a machinist, but I think a plating shop could build up the splined portion of the shaft. (Or Spider) May be cheaper to find another part.

notmeu · Post by **notmeu** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 3:04 pm

Tom, another thought: I drilled my clutch adjusting bolts with two holes running through adjacent faces. This allowed me to use the retaining pins as shown in the manual, and still tweak adjustments and know that they would stay in place.

Paul[/quote]

Paul, I already have new bolts and a pin ready to slide thru the 2 bolts. I figured that I would mark the bolts and then drill the bolt heads once the correct position was achieved. My luck, if I would pre drill the bolts they would be at the wrong spot.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 3:25 pm

Sounds like a plan. My adjacent face drilling was the result of needing a larger gap in my clutches. I used never seize on the bolts since the metal removed compromises the bolt strength and without it, I'd probably twist a head off at some point in the future.

notmeu · Post by **notmeu** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 4:16 pm

Paul, keep checking ebay and craigslist for a winch you may be surprised at what you find. 6 or so months ago I found a 8a that had all of the internals but it was in a very bad rusty shape like the above photo, and it didn't sell for the 100.00 starting bid. That's how I found the 2 winches I picked up to make one good one. I got them really cheap! It never hurts to have too many parts for these old girls!!!

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:02 pm

Paul, it's been a long time since I was a machinist, but I think a plating shop could build up the splined portion of the shaft. (Or Spider) May be cheaper to find another part.

Always on the search for good used parts. I've often found this effort more cost effective than other options. That said, I'm a hobby equipment user. When I needed to use my machines to pay the bills, I often chose the most time efficient solution.

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