1010 steering and clutch questions
1010 steering and clutch questions
Oh I'm sure you guys seen this topic a hundred times, but this one might be different.
My 1010 is no longer steering to the right or to the left. It drives back and forth very nicely, and can spin both tracks if pushing a hard mound. I studied over the brake/clutch adjustment in the tech manual, and cleaned up the inspection covers. When I opened them up, this is what I see. One side has what appears to be a different, or home made Steering Control Rod. It also seems to be bent. If it is bent, I can't "adjust rod until shortest distance between ball joints is obtained"
Are all the parts suppose to be dry, or oily? There seams to be a small amount of oil on everything below the adjustment rods, but nothing collected in the bottom of the housing.
Just wondering where to go from here folks...
My 1010 is no longer steering to the right or to the left. It drives back and forth very nicely, and can spin both tracks if pushing a hard mound. I studied over the brake/clutch adjustment in the tech manual, and cleaned up the inspection covers. When I opened them up, this is what I see. One side has what appears to be a different, or home made Steering Control Rod. It also seems to be bent. If it is bent, I can't "adjust rod until shortest distance between ball joints is obtained"
Are all the parts suppose to be dry, or oily? There seams to be a small amount of oil on everything below the adjustment rods, but nothing collected in the bottom of the housing.
Just wondering where to go from here folks...
Minnesota
should be dry and yes bent dont work does it still push if you pull both levers back? if it does you are not adjusted right or the discs are swollen and wont allow it to release. levers should only have about 1 1/2 inch free play before throwout touches fingers then about 6 inches to brake apply
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Yes, if I pull either lever back, the crawler will still move forward and push hard. The only way I can "steer" the machine into position is to hold back a steering lever, and release the clutch. I can get the machine to move only an inch or two each time I release the clutch that way... but its the only way to get it across the yard to work on it.
Minnesota
The adjuster you show in the pics is the original adjuster, they were a little bit weak, and not uncommon to see them bent. Normally they are bent from a misadjustment, and the steering levers being pulled back to far.
To echo what has already been said, housing should be bone dry, any oil at all is a bad sign. Not likely related to your problem, but still not good.
Lavoy
To echo what has already been said, housing should be bone dry, any oil at all is a bad sign. Not likely related to your problem, but still not good.
Lavoy
Lavoy, are these adjusters replaceable?... If so do you know where can I order them from.? Maybe I can bend it back straight while in place, but that might not be the best thing to do.
I wonder why one is different than the one on the other side. Could it be that one adjuster has been replaced from a different year 1010?
I wonder why one is different than the one on the other side. Could it be that one adjuster has been replaced from a different year 1010?
Minnesota
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 6:36 am
- Location: Amelia, La
1010 cluches
If you cant steer left or right you have oil on brack bands, you will need to change oil seals on left and right steering housings. Ive done this on my 1010 ,
1010 Dozer>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 6:36 am
- Location: Amelia, La
1010 seals
hello seals are a deere item 25 or 30 apiece need 2 , might can cleen breakband you might can cleen oil out, breakbands lovay can get that for you, you will have to tare down cluch housing , each side has a quil that supports a main gear and it has a seal that needs to be replaced, its leaking gear oil on brackbands thats why you cant go left or right, i done mine my self each side might take a day , grt a repar manule saves time,
1010 Dozer>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Oh my. Thanks for the news everyone. I do not have a garage/pole barn that I can do this sort of job in. My house and garage is in town, but I wouldn't be allowed to drive the dozer around my tar driveway here.
I'd hate to tear this machine down out in the dirt driveway at the property it lives at.
Lavoy, what's a rough cost on clutches and brake bands from you if mine are pretty worn out? Or they could be new and just full of oil.
I'd hate to tear this machine down out in the dirt driveway at the property it lives at.
Lavoy, what's a rough cost on clutches and brake bands from you if mine are pretty worn out? Or they could be new and just full of oil.
Minnesota
I used a motorcycle lift to remove the finals you need a hard surface to move the bike lift in an out . http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=5493
1970 350 crawer/loader 93a back hoe
I actually used the machine a bunch even though it goes straight back and forth only( sometimes I can move it gradually for a slight turn or adjustment)
I drop dirt or stumps or such in front of it with the loader and then push it straight out to the swamp and back. The loader sure sucks for dozing work!
I drop dirt or stumps or such in front of it with the loader and then push it straight out to the swamp and back. The loader sure sucks for dozing work!
Minnesota
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