1010 steering and clutch questions

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:39 pm

Oh I'm sure you guys seen this topic a hundred times, but this one might be different.

My 1010 is no longer steering to the right or to the left. It drives back and forth very nicely, and can spin both tracks if pushing a hard mound. I studied over the brake/clutch adjustment in the tech manual, and cleaned up the inspection covers. When I opened them up, this is what I see. One side has what appears to be a different, or home made Steering Control Rod. It also seems to be bent. If it is bent, I can't "adjust rod until shortest distance between ball joints is obtained"

Are all the parts suppose to be dry, or oily? There seams to be a small amount of oil on everything below the adjustment rods, but nothing collected in the bottom of the housing.

Just wondering where to go from here folks...

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:00 pm

should be dry and yes bent dont work does it still push if you pull both levers back? if it does you are not adjusted right or the discs are swollen and wont allow it to release. levers should only have about 1 1/2 inch free play before throwout touches fingers then about 6 inches to brake apply

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:07 pm

Yes, if I pull either lever back, the crawler will still move forward and push hard. The only way I can "steer" the machine into position is to hold back a steering lever, and release the clutch. I can get the machine to move only an inch or two each time I release the clutch that way... but its the only way to get it across the yard to work on it.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:12 am

The adjuster you show in the pics is the original adjuster, they were a little bit weak, and not uncommon to see them bent. Normally they are bent from a misadjustment, and the steering levers being pulled back to far.
To echo what has already been said, housing should be bone dry, any oil at all is a bad sign. Not likely related to your problem, but still not good.
Lavoy

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:17 pm

Lavoy, are these adjusters replaceable?... If so do you know where can I order them from.? Maybe I can bend it back straight while in place, but that might not be the best thing to do.

I wonder why one is different than the one on the other side. Could it be that one adjuster has been replaced from a different year 1010?

spenceraucoin · Post by **spenceraucoin** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:04 pm

If you cant steer left or right you have oil on brack bands, you will need to change oil seals on left and right steering housings. Ive done this on my 1010 ,

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:15 pm

Spencer... What kind of job is it to change those seals? I suppose if you have to tear it all down, most people would put in new brake bands/clutches. That could get expensive pretty fast.... what did it cost you about?

Dustin

spenceraucoin · Post by **spenceraucoin** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:50 pm

hello seals are a deere item 25 or 30 apiece need 2 , might can cleen breakband you might can cleen oil out, breakbands lovay can get that for you, you will have to tare down cluch housing , each side has a quil that supports a main gear and it has a seal that needs to be replaced, its leaking gear oil on brackbands thats why you cant go left or right, i done mine my self each side might take a day , grt a repar manule saves time,

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:23 pm

Adjuster can be replaced with the new style. You need to fix the oil leak at the same time.
Lavoy

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:24 pm

Oh my. Thanks for the news everyone. I do not have a garage/pole barn that I can do this sort of job in. My house and garage is in town, but I wouldn't be allowed to drive the dozer around my tar driveway here.

I'd hate to tear this machine down out in the dirt driveway at the property it lives at.

Lavoy, what's a rough cost on clutches and brake bands from you if mine are pretty worn out? Or they could be new and just full of oil.

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:54 am

I would tear it down first, and see what you find. New or used, fiber discs soaked in oil are junk. Brake band might work if you get all of the oil you can off of it. Fibers are not expensive, seems to me in the $20-$25 range each.
Lavoy

gerald · Post by **gerald** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:00 pm

I used a motorcycle lift to remove the finals you need a hard surface to move the bike lift in an out . http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=5493

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:17 pm

Okay, brain fart, I had 2010 in my head when I posted prices. Fiber discs are $20/each, I normally have 40-50 on hand, so no problem there.
Lavoy

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:15 pm

Lavoy... how many would I need?

My machine needs new tracks/rollers/rollers/sprockets also.

Not sure if it's worth dumping all the money into that, and new clutches/brakes/time.

dustin · Post by **dustin** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:16 pm

I actually used the machine a bunch even though it goes straight back and forth only( sometimes I can move it gradually for a slight turn or adjustment)

I drop dirt or stumps or such in front of it with the loader and then push it straight out to the swamp and back. The loader sure sucks for dozing work!

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