General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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fictional31m
- 420 crawler

- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 4:48 am
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by fictional31m » Wed May 09, 2012 9:52 am
Hello Im new here it seams the place to be if your own a John Deere crawler

I have some general questions on the steering levers if I push forward on one handle I hear a snap like noise and when i pull it feels like the tension band or brake I was looking at the exploded view of the brake band and noticed there is also a clutch like setup so I was wondering how the steering handles work/function
also on this john deere mc crawler the main clutch is very sensitive it don't take much pedal movement and it starts moving the guy said he had a new clutch put in it but he also said a lot of things that after looking closer wasn't what he said it to be so is the clutch sensitivity normal or is something out of adjustment? also after pushing in the clutch the gears in the transmission continue to turn even after pressing clutch fully in and the gears will grind a bit when changing gears.
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Pammark
- 440 crawler

- Posts: 195
- Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:04 pm
- Location: Marysville, Ohio
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by Pammark » Fri May 11, 2012 9:48 am
You have several questions, so let's take them one step at a time.
If the dozer is not used much, the clutches tend to swell maybe with moisture or rust slightly to make them stick. The main drive clutch maybe out of adjustment or need to be used more. As long as they open and close, that is all that is needed. Use the dozer some to warm them up, then adjust later for the correct amound of foot pedal play.
A dozer does not have a differential with spider gears in the rear end. Slippage to turn is through the steering clutches. They are multiple plates of fiber and steel, which will also swell with moisture or rust together. Usage is the best way to keep them in good shape. The clicking while pushing the arm forward is not normal. There may be an adjustment or lack or use to cause that. Normal operation for steering is; pull back the arm a few inches and the clutch should open and slip. Pulling further back will depress the brake band to help stop the clutch rotation. Think of it as pull back for a slow turn, further back for a tighter turn. If you pull both arms at the same time, the dozer should not move forward at all.
If the clutchs work, then there are adjustments in the clutch housing as to when the plates open for slippage and when the brake band tightens.
Mark
JD 2010 Crawler with Loader
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fictional31m
- 420 crawler

- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 4:48 am
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by fictional31m » Fri May 11, 2012 11:38 pm
Thanks for the reply I understand now I took the inspection cover off the top of the right control to have a look in there I will more than likely need to drive it for a few and see.
I did notice its a bit wore where the hand control goes into the housing when I pull back on the handle there is resistance from the throw out bearing then if you pull further back you hear a snap sound as if the throw out bearing slipped off the tang of the pressure plate
as far as the main drive clutch I could not find any adjustments to adjust the clutch I'm trying to find a service manual I'm not quite sure what manual or manuals I need to repair this mc crawler the ones I have found say THIS MANUAL DOES NOT COVER THE SECTIONS IN THE M REPAIR MANUAL. IT ONLY COVERS THE SECTIONS THAT ARE DIFFERENT THAN A MODEL M
so does that mean it only covers things like tracks and idlers but not the engine/transmission/fuel/overhaul etc ?
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Lavoy
- Site Admin

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- Location: North Dakota
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by Lavoy » Sat May 12, 2012 9:37 am
MC manual will not have engine information, that is what you need the M manual for.
The best bet is M & MC service manuals, and an M series parts manual.
Lavoy
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