Show us pictures of your JD crawler and attachments.
-
Lavoy
- Site Admin

- Posts: 11108
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: North Dakota
-
Contact:
Post
by Lavoy » Sat May 12, 2012 9:42 am
Early MC judging by the roller caps.
Get a parts and service manual/s before tearing into it too much, lots of good info in them.
Lavoy
-
fictional31m
- 420 crawler

- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 4:48 am
Post
by fictional31m » Sat May 12, 2012 8:18 pm
Do you think that blade would work for clearing and making roads?
from the blades I have seen this one don't have much of a curve of course its from a 3 point hitch blade one concern is anything I push would go over top of it what do you guys think?
-
Lavoy
- Site Admin

- Posts: 11108
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: North Dakota
-
Contact:
Post
by Lavoy » Sat May 12, 2012 8:29 pm
All you can do is try it. If the crawler gets good traction, I can't see the blade living long term if you are clearing trees or heavy brush.
Lavoy
-
roadbuilder
- 440 crawler

- Posts: 108
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:25 pm
- Location: Allegany, Oregon
Post
by roadbuilder » Sat May 26, 2012 10:24 am
I'd go with what Lavoy said.
Try to limit your hard shoving to the middle of the blade. You want to push as evenly with each track as you can anyway no matter how stout the blade is. Easier on the drive train. At least get the operators manual. Looking at the steering levers, I think you may need to do little adjusting of the steering clutch/brakes. Between the manual, and this forum, you can do the adjustments, or find out what parts you may need,such as clutch discs,etc. I would expect that when you push up against something hard, one side (track) will stall out before the other. When one or both tracks stall, quit shoving. Best of luck with your new dozer!

If it's worth doin', it's worth doin' right.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests