i was taking the machine through some soft terrain started sliding and the right track came off
what is the best way to get track back on
thanks
440 icd
Hemi-
I think the answer is "it depends". I don't know all the specifics about the 440 crawlers, but it can't be much different than my 2010 (other than possibly mechanical adjusters).
There are two ways to put back on- either try to slip it back on whole or split the track at the master link and then reattach after split. The first method (trying to get back on whole) is very difficult to do and in my experience only works if you catch it before it completely comes off and can back up. Otherwise you will need some additional equipment to try and get back on whole.
I have slipped a track several times, and have always split the track at the master link. Then I jack the crawler up, slip the split track underneath the rollers or drive the crawler onto them, and then pull the remaining track over the front and top idlers to join it at the sprocket. This is easier than trying to rejoin on the front or top idlers or smewhere else as the srpocket will hold one end of the track for you.
You will have to retract the front idler in either case to keep it from being too far forward and thus tight when you rejoin the track (or if you try to put track back on whole).
Soft ground is really going to hamper you getting it back on- believe me I know from experience. I would try to get it onto firm ground if possible because it will be difficult to get the tack tight nuder the rollers if soft. If you try to drive it, be very careful you don't rip your final drive off of the side without the track.
Other equipment such as a skid steer loader or tractor will make it much easier to manipulate the track, as it is very heavy. I can barely snake my 2010 track on my own and can't lift more than a couple of links without assistance.
I have a pictorial of how to do it for a 2010 at the following linK:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=slipped
I think the answer is "it depends". I don't know all the specifics about the 440 crawlers, but it can't be much different than my 2010 (other than possibly mechanical adjusters).
There are two ways to put back on- either try to slip it back on whole or split the track at the master link and then reattach after split. The first method (trying to get back on whole) is very difficult to do and in my experience only works if you catch it before it completely comes off and can back up. Otherwise you will need some additional equipment to try and get back on whole.
I have slipped a track several times, and have always split the track at the master link. Then I jack the crawler up, slip the split track underneath the rollers or drive the crawler onto them, and then pull the remaining track over the front and top idlers to join it at the sprocket. This is easier than trying to rejoin on the front or top idlers or smewhere else as the srpocket will hold one end of the track for you.
You will have to retract the front idler in either case to keep it from being too far forward and thus tight when you rejoin the track (or if you try to put track back on whole).
Soft ground is really going to hamper you getting it back on- believe me I know from experience. I would try to get it onto firm ground if possible because it will be difficult to get the tack tight nuder the rollers if soft. If you try to drive it, be very careful you don't rip your final drive off of the side without the track.
Other equipment such as a skid steer loader or tractor will make it much easier to manipulate the track, as it is very heavy. I can barely snake my 2010 track on my own and can't lift more than a couple of links without assistance.
I have a pictorial of how to do it for a 2010 at the following linK:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=slipped
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
tigerhaze thanks
it is in mud but i have a backoe on the machi8ne so i have it lifted up enough to work on.the machine is a 1959 i believe i couldnt see a master link will it be obvious and how does it come apart.are the tensioners adjustable maybe ican crank them back to get room to slip over sprocket
thanks for the great pictures ill try to get a picture of the situation
it is in mud but i have a backoe on the machi8ne so i have it lifted up enough to work on.the machine is a 1959 i believe i couldnt see a master link will it be obvious and how does it come apart.are the tensioners adjustable maybe ican crank them back to get room to slip over sprocket
thanks for the great pictures ill try to get a picture of the situation
Hi Hemi-
The backhoe will really help you- I wish i would have had mine attached when I slipped my track.
I am not sure about a 440 crawler, but on my 2010 the master pin has a square head and has a small dimple on the other end. The pin is retained by a "C" clip which has to be removed first. You have to look pretty close to see which pin is different, which is tough in muddy conditions. You would then have to force it out with a sledgehammer or something similar, which is a chore in itself.
The front idler should have a tensioner and be adjustable; however I am not sure if you have hydraulic or mechanical adjusters. If hydraulic, then you simply remove the larger bolt on the adjuster near the grease fitting, retain the check ball, and force the front idler backward to shorten it. This should force the grease out but you may need to coax it along with equipment or a come-along. If mechanical tensioner, my understanding is that you have to turn a large nut on a threaded shaft. I don't know w hole lot about 440s so Lavoy or someone should confirm this.
If you are in sloppy stuff and can keep the crawler up out of it with the backhoe and front bucket (if a loader), you may be able to get the track back on in one piece. To do it, you would put on the sprocket first, then underneath the rollers and finally pried it back over the front idler with a large prybar. Depending on how the track slipped off, this may be an option. You may also be able to spin on using the power of the drive sprocket.
I hate to split and reattach track, but I have found that if the trackcomes completely off that it is usually my only remedy. Having another piece of equipment (like a skid steer loader) may make it feasible to put on in one piece. If using hand tools, probably not as easy an option.
Whatever you do be very careful and wear protective gear like gloves and steel toe boots- it goes without saying but working with heavy track in sloppy conditions can be dangerous.
The backhoe will really help you- I wish i would have had mine attached when I slipped my track.
I am not sure about a 440 crawler, but on my 2010 the master pin has a square head and has a small dimple on the other end. The pin is retained by a "C" clip which has to be removed first. You have to look pretty close to see which pin is different, which is tough in muddy conditions. You would then have to force it out with a sledgehammer or something similar, which is a chore in itself.
The front idler should have a tensioner and be adjustable; however I am not sure if you have hydraulic or mechanical adjusters. If hydraulic, then you simply remove the larger bolt on the adjuster near the grease fitting, retain the check ball, and force the front idler backward to shorten it. This should force the grease out but you may need to coax it along with equipment or a come-along. If mechanical tensioner, my understanding is that you have to turn a large nut on a threaded shaft. I don't know w hole lot about 440s so Lavoy or someone should confirm this.
If you are in sloppy stuff and can keep the crawler up out of it with the backhoe and front bucket (if a loader), you may be able to get the track back on in one piece. To do it, you would put on the sprocket first, then underneath the rollers and finally pried it back over the front idler with a large prybar. Depending on how the track slipped off, this may be an option. You may also be able to spin on using the power of the drive sprocket.
I hate to split and reattach track, but I have found that if the trackcomes completely off that it is usually my only remedy. Having another piece of equipment (like a skid steer loader) may make it feasible to put on in one piece. If using hand tools, probably not as easy an option.
Whatever you do be very careful and wear protective gear like gloves and steel toe boots- it goes without saying but working with heavy track in sloppy conditions can be dangerous.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I usually use a free photo-sharing service (Photobucket.com) but you can use any third-party photo sharing.
Then you just link to that location using the![Image]()
function. insert the link path between the two sets of brackets and it should post.
Then you just link to that location using the
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Hi Hemi-
When you go to Photobucket, you need to pick a specific photo to have it show up as an image. Also, the middle "[img]" is not needed when you do so.
When you go to Photobucket, you need to pick a specific photo to have it show up as an image. Also, the middle "[img]" is not needed when you do so.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
First of all – NICE crawler!
First thing you need to do is collapse the hydraulic track adjuster. Remove the cover bolt from the hole and then loosen the Allen head setscrew inside, which presses against a ball holding the grease in. (You may have some variation on this design). The grease should then come out of a hole in the bottom of the adjuster directly under the set screw. You may need to use a come-along to pull the adjuster piston in. If your adjuster is frozen this is a good time to unbolt it and rebuild it. If your adjuster will not adjust, you will always have track problems.
You have some options on repositioning the track. A lot of folks on this board shy away from splitting the track by removing the master pin. I find that once you have the pin free so it will come out, it is easier and easier to do the next times you need to remove the track to work on a final drive, etc. However, being down in the mud it may be a heck of a job trying to hold the track and drive the pin out; plus the track might not be in the right position.
If you are not splitting the track, your first objective is to get the track positioned on the rear sprocket, then manhandle it up onto the front idler wheel. With your backhoe and bucket combination you should be able to raise that side of the crawler. Block it up under the skid plate if you have to. You need enough clearance so that the track will slide under the flanges on the bottom rollers.
At this point you can manhandle the track under the rollers. A long pointed digging bar comes in real handy. If you start pumping up the track adjuster, it should straighten the track and position it on the rollers. Another option is to start the crawler, hold the brake on the track on the other side, and slowly let the sprocket on this side turn to walk the track back on.
First thing you need to do is collapse the hydraulic track adjuster. Remove the cover bolt from the hole and then loosen the Allen head setscrew inside, which presses against a ball holding the grease in. (You may have some variation on this design). The grease should then come out of a hole in the bottom of the adjuster directly under the set screw. You may need to use a come-along to pull the adjuster piston in. If your adjuster is frozen this is a good time to unbolt it and rebuild it. If your adjuster will not adjust, you will always have track problems.
You have some options on repositioning the track. A lot of folks on this board shy away from splitting the track by removing the master pin. I find that once you have the pin free so it will come out, it is easier and easier to do the next times you need to remove the track to work on a final drive, etc. However, being down in the mud it may be a heck of a job trying to hold the track and drive the pin out; plus the track might not be in the right position.
If you are not splitting the track, your first objective is to get the track positioned on the rear sprocket, then manhandle it up onto the front idler wheel. With your backhoe and bucket combination you should be able to raise that side of the crawler. Block it up under the skid plate if you have to. You need enough clearance so that the track will slide under the flanges on the bottom rollers.
At this point you can manhandle the track under the rollers. A long pointed digging bar comes in real handy. If you start pumping up the track adjuster, it should straighten the track and position it on the rollers. Another option is to start the crawler, hold the brake on the track on the other side, and slowly let the sprocket on this side turn to walk the track back on.
JD440-ICD loader; JD440-IC bulldozer; JD440-ICD backhoe; JD440-I backhoe; JD440-I tractor; + five recumbent JD440-ICs
A set of pictures is worth a couple thousand words 
I can tell you this- it will be difficult to impossible to reattach the track if you split it being on a hillside like you are. Normally I wouldn't think it would be easier to reattach if unsplit, but your case is an exception.
I agree with Gil that you would need to start at the sprocket end and that the tensioner has to be collapsed as much as possible. It is nice that you can simaltaneously have the front and rear of the crawler supported by the buckets.
Your difficulty will be getting the back edge of the rail to slip over the leading edge of the front idler and beneath the roller flanges. Even though it looks really loose now, when you get the track over the sprocket you will find you have very little slack to get it over the front idler, especially with the weight of the track underneath the rollers sagging and unsupported.
I would get the track completely on the sprocket and lined up with the rollers beneath, then lower the back of the crawler onto the rollers. This will keep your track aligned as you pull it around the front idler.
Since you are on the hillside and are supported by the front bucket, your front idler and frontside rollers should still have clearance. If you have access to a skidsteer, you may be able to then attach straps or chains to the front of the track and try to slip over the front idler. You will likely need to pry it over (the clearance will be that close), so take large pry bars.
If this doesn't work you could also try to spin on by supporting the front and rear of the crawler with both buckets so both tracks are not touching the ground. You could then put in reverse to try and pull the track over the front idler using sprocket power like Gil said. This is very dangerous, but have used that sucessfully.
If all else fails, you can split the track and attach conventionally. I can tell you right now that the soft ground and slope are going to give you fits no matter what. Also all of these things are dangerous and you can easily lose a finger or worse- be very careful and when in doubt, stop and reasses.
There is no right or wrong way, so if one way of reattaching is not working try a different way. I strongly suggest getting a skide steer or wheel tractor with boom to help maneuver the track- it could make the difference.
I can tell you this- it will be difficult to impossible to reattach the track if you split it being on a hillside like you are. Normally I wouldn't think it would be easier to reattach if unsplit, but your case is an exception.
I agree with Gil that you would need to start at the sprocket end and that the tensioner has to be collapsed as much as possible. It is nice that you can simaltaneously have the front and rear of the crawler supported by the buckets.
Your difficulty will be getting the back edge of the rail to slip over the leading edge of the front idler and beneath the roller flanges. Even though it looks really loose now, when you get the track over the sprocket you will find you have very little slack to get it over the front idler, especially with the weight of the track underneath the rollers sagging and unsupported.
I would get the track completely on the sprocket and lined up with the rollers beneath, then lower the back of the crawler onto the rollers. This will keep your track aligned as you pull it around the front idler.
Since you are on the hillside and are supported by the front bucket, your front idler and frontside rollers should still have clearance. If you have access to a skidsteer, you may be able to then attach straps or chains to the front of the track and try to slip over the front idler. You will likely need to pry it over (the clearance will be that close), so take large pry bars.
If this doesn't work you could also try to spin on by supporting the front and rear of the crawler with both buckets so both tracks are not touching the ground. You could then put in reverse to try and pull the track over the front idler using sprocket power like Gil said. This is very dangerous, but have used that sucessfully.
If all else fails, you can split the track and attach conventionally. I can tell you right now that the soft ground and slope are going to give you fits no matter what. Also all of these things are dangerous and you can easily lose a finger or worse- be very careful and when in doubt, stop and reasses.
There is no right or wrong way, so if one way of reattaching is not working try a different way. I strongly suggest getting a skide steer or wheel tractor with boom to help maneuver the track- it could make the difference.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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