Post support questions about your JD350 and newer crawler here
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THey have them on a 350C? if so, where would they (hydraulic assist line)be located? I don't recall seeing that in the service manualSmiley wrote:Did you first check to see if you have the separate hydraulic assist line before adjusting steering clutches? I did that only to find it half full of sludge and the other half empty. i cleaned it out and refilled and mine is running much better without having to get into the steering clutches.
My understanding is the hydraulic assist is on the 350 and 350B crawlers, which still had primarily mechanical steering clutches. The 350Cs and newer crawlers use fully hydraulic steering clutches.mokyj wrote:THey have them on a 350C? if so, where would they (hydraulic assist line)be located? I don't recall seeing that in the service manualSmiley wrote:Did you first check to see if you have the separate hydraulic assist line before adjusting steering clutches? I did that only to find it half full of sludge and the other half empty. i cleaned it out and refilled and mine is running much better without having to get into the steering clutches.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
As long as you follow certain fundementals, the adjustments are not very critical.ssmitto8 wrote:Can anyone tell me if it is possible to adjust the steering clutches on a 350 with out taking it all apart? (is there an inspection plate, etc.) Thanks
1st - hold your foot down hard on the brake pedal and then see if you can move both steering levers back and forth freely. If not, you have to get the linkage unstuck first.
2nd - make sure the clutchs have free-play. I.e., make sure the clutch pressure-plate fingers are not riding against the throwout bearings when the steering levers are at rest. There must be some play, and there should not be excessive play. Anywhere inbetween can work fine.
3rd - make sure the brake band has the proper "initial" size adjustment that is independent of any linkage. It has a hex on top that takes a 3/4" wrench. Turn it until snug, and then back off aprox. 1/2 turn and let it snap into place (it has cams on it). That is for a used brake-bank. With a new one, back off one full turn.
4th - get your linkage adjusted so the clutch disengages just before the brake grabs. When correct, you can do this. Point the crawler up a hill. Put the trans in 2nd gear, and reverser in forward (if you have one). Let go of both steering levers and start climbing the hill. Then, gradually pull back on both levers. If all is correct, there should be a point when the crawler starts to roll backwards (not just stop). Pull back just a bit more and it should stop due to the braking. If it won't have a point where it can roll, the brakes are probably engaging too soon in relation to the clutch adjustment.
Inside the clutch housing, pretty much on top. Pretty easy to get to, but not so easy to fix. A shaft goes through a cast-iron arm. One is for brakes and one is for clutch. The shaft gets rusted and stuck to that cast iron arm around it. Sometimes, if you heat it until it's orange with a torch, and work it back and forth, it might come loose. Then try to get some oil in there. When I was fixing these things out in the field - sometimes I'd take a cutting torch and cut a groove right through the cast-iron arm (on top) down to where the shaft is, inside of it. Then you've got a hole to drop some oil in.KenP wrote:John,
After reading your note, I went out and "tested" my 350 by pushing down on the brake pedal hard and checking the steering levers.
My left lever moves normally, but the right one "drags" when I do this. I looked quickly at the linkages I could see under the seat, but nothing apparent.
Where do they stick? Is it inside the clutch housing? Best way to free it up?
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