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jd 350 steering clutch adjustment

 
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ssmitto8
MC crawler
MC crawler


Joined: 28 May 2009
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:28 pm    Post subject: jd 350 steering clutch adjustment Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to adjust the steering clutches on a 350 with out taking it all apart? (is there an inspection plate, etc.) Thanks Rolling Eyes
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KenP
350 crawler


Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 843

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Last edited by KenP on Sat May 25, 2013 11:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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Smiley
40C crawler
40C crawler


Joined: 14 Aug 2008
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you first check to see if you have the separate hydraulic assist line before adjusting steering clutches? I did that only to find it half full of sludge and the other half empty. i cleaned it out and refilled and mine is running much better without having to get into the steering clutches.
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mokyj
40C crawler
40C crawler


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 13
Location: McGraw, NY

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smiley wrote:
Did you first check to see if you have the separate hydraulic assist line before adjusting steering clutches? I did that only to find it half full of sludge and the other half empty. i cleaned it out and refilled and mine is running much better without having to get into the steering clutches.


THey have them on a 350C? if so, where would they (hydraulic assist line)be located? I don't recall seeing that in the service manual
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Tigerhaze
350 crawler


Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 2022
Location: West-Central MO

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mokyj wrote:
Smiley wrote:
Did you first check to see if you have the separate hydraulic assist line before adjusting steering clutches? I did that only to find it half full of sludge and the other half empty. i cleaned it out and refilled and mine is running much better without having to get into the steering clutches.


THey have them on a 350C? if so, where would they (hydraulic assist line)be located? I don't recall seeing that in the service manual


My understanding is the hydraulic assist is on the 350 and 350B crawlers, which still had primarily mechanical steering clutches. The 350Cs and newer crawlers use fully hydraulic steering clutches.
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jdemaris
350 crawler


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 816
Location: Central New York

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mokyj wrote:
THey have them on a 350C? if so, where would they (hydraulic assist line)be located? I don't recall seeing that in the service manual


350C is totally different. It not only has hydraulically powered wet steering clutches, it also has wet, self-adjusting brake-bands.
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Deere 1010 crawler, 300B TLB, 300, 440 diesel crawler. Cletrac HG dozer, AC HD4 and HD6 dozers, Mark IV hoe, Case 580CK TLB, Ford 4000 TLB, Case VAC (2) tractors, DC (3) tractors, Shaw R12 tractor, IH B275 tractors (2), Pettibone TLB.
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jdemaris
350 crawler


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 816
Location: Central New York

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: jd 350 steering clutch adjustment Reply with quote

ssmitto8 wrote:
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to adjust the steering clutches on a 350 with out taking it all apart? (is there an inspection plate, etc.) Thanks Rolling Eyes


As long as you follow certain fundementals, the adjustments are not very critical.

1st - hold your foot down hard on the brake pedal and then see if you can move both steering levers back and forth freely. If not, you have to get the linkage unstuck first.

2nd - make sure the clutchs have free-play. I.e., make sure the clutch pressure-plate fingers are not riding against the throwout bearings when the steering levers are at rest. There must be some play, and there should not be excessive play. Anywhere inbetween can work fine.

3rd - make sure the brake band has the proper "initial" size adjustment that is independent of any linkage. It has a hex on top that takes a 3/4" wrench. Turn it until snug, and then back off aprox. 1/2 turn and let it snap into place (it has cams on it). That is for a used brake-bank. With a new one, back off one full turn.

4th - get your linkage adjusted so the clutch disengages just before the brake grabs. When correct, you can do this. Point the crawler up a hill. Put the trans in 2nd gear, and reverser in forward (if you have one). Let go of both steering levers and start climbing the hill. Then, gradually pull back on both levers. If all is correct, there should be a point when the crawler starts to roll backwards (not just stop). Pull back just a bit more and it should stop due to the braking. If it won't have a point where it can roll, the brakes are probably engaging too soon in relation to the clutch adjustment.
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Deere 1010 crawler, 300B TLB, 300, 440 diesel crawler. Cletrac HG dozer, AC HD4 and HD6 dozers, Mark IV hoe, Case 580CK TLB, Ford 4000 TLB, Case VAC (2) tractors, DC (3) tractors, Shaw R12 tractor, IH B275 tractors (2), Pettibone TLB.
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KenP
350 crawler


Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 843

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Last edited by KenP on Sat May 25, 2013 11:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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jdemaris
350 crawler


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 816
Location: Central New York

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KenP wrote:
John,
After reading your note, I went out and "tested" my 350 by pushing down on the brake pedal hard and checking the steering levers.
My left lever moves normally, but the right one "drags" when I do this. I looked quickly at the linkages I could see under the seat, but nothing apparent.
Where do they stick? Is it inside the clutch housing? Best way to free it up?


Inside the clutch housing, pretty much on top. Pretty easy to get to, but not so easy to fix. A shaft goes through a cast-iron arm. One is for brakes and one is for clutch. The shaft gets rusted and stuck to that cast iron arm around it. Sometimes, if you heat it until it's orange with a torch, and work it back and forth, it might come loose. Then try to get some oil in there. When I was fixing these things out in the field - sometimes I'd take a cutting torch and cut a groove right through the cast-iron arm (on top) down to where the shaft is, inside of it. Then you've got a hole to drop some oil in.
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KenP
350 crawler


Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 843

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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