JD 40c Track Removal Question

dmlinton · Post by **dmlinton** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:52 am

Greetings!
This may be a marginally stupid question but... I am having trouble removing one of the tracks on my 40c - I cannot get the pin out. I cannot see that anything is holding it in place except maybe rust. Is the answer just lots of heat and a big hammer or might there be a more civilized way? Thought I should ask before I break something instead of after.
Regards, Dennis

boler76 · Post by **boler76** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:12 pm

I have just removed and reinstalled both tracks on my 40c and I made up a jig with long large bolts and pressed the pins out rather than trying to beat them, once it was set up it worked well Just used scrap stuff I had laying around and imagination good luck

dmlinton · Post by **dmlinton** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:21 pm

Thanks. I was thinking of doing that. What sort of steel did you use for the beams? It would have to be pretty substantial, I would think.

boler76 · Post by **boler76** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:47 pm

I used 5/8" bolts and 1/2" steel and a large impact socket to let the pin move out and a 1/2" nut as a pusher Once the pin starts to move it comes out readily Hard to explain in print but I am sure you will figure it out

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Sun Aug 09, 2009 7:27 pm

Have to beat the living crap out of it. Normally you don't heat it, but if it just will not move, heat a spot on the opposite link from where you're driving and opposite from the track shoe.

The Fireman · Post by **The Fireman** » Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:38 pm

It also helps to leave the track pad on the link and remove the one on the next link, doing this still alows acsess to the pin and the pad holds both sides of the link to keep it from trying to spread when you hit it. This problem has gotten me on more than one ocasion, heat can also be required and in extreme cases you may have to cut the center out of the pin with a torch. However unless you are on the clock and need to make time on this I dont recomend that.

A master pin for a 450 or other newer machine is less than 100 dollars and with shop rates around 85-90 per hour we used to cut the pins if they fought to hard and save the coustomer some labor. I'm assuming time isnt a factor here and parts are somewhat tough to come by so its best to try to save it if at all posible. Heating the link will usually do it, another thing to watch out for is mushrooming the end of the pin if it dose mushroom hammer it back the other way and use a die grinder to clean the burr off.

good luck.

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:09 pm

Speaking of pins...anyone know where to find one?

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:57 am

What pin are you looking for?
lavoy

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 1:06 pm

Lavoy- master pin for a 40c, and both snap rings if available.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 1:57 pm

I think I am out right now, need to order more, should have them next week.
Lavoy

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:14 am

Thanks- I will email with some other parts I need.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:03 pm

Best answer I get so far is master pins are obsolete, not to be produced again.
Lavoy

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:35 pm

Should I plan on making my own? or have you got a used one?

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:58 pm

I am out, I found one new one for a pattern, guess I better take it in and see if I can get them made.
Lavoy

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 3:45 pm

Hi Lavoy-

Is this issue limited to the 40c, or is this true for a wider range of older crawlers?

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