555
That converter was built by Twin Screw for Deere.See if you can find a good converter repair shop and tell them you have a Twin Screw out of a 555 Deere They may have an exchange or be able to repair yours quickly.Dont be afraid to contact others in your neighbourhood with fleets of iron they will be your best contact for rebuilders and parts within a resonable area to find parts I have contractors and single machine owners at my place all the time asking questions about the best place to get this part or that part most will not steer you wrong as they dont like beeing steered in the wrong direction them selves .Dont be afraid to ask stupid questions we have heard them before and as far as parts are conserned the guy with the greasiest hands has the best answers .How many hours are on your unit .Make shure the trany input seal has not left a grove in the pump drive tube and if you have a good core it should rebuild OK.If the tube has a grove in it you should replace the converter completely.Dont let yours go till you find the exact right replacement unit as your converter .Ask if the unit is pre filled .Look for paint marks on your housing and make shure the paint marks arent different .Paint marks are ratio and lock up related .You want the same as you took out.Digitup.
555 converter
There is about 5000 hrs on crawler. I'm not sure where the problem is, but I have a heating problem and my preasure drops. Crawler works fine but feel it its losing some power after it heats. I have already double checked gauges and there right. after about an hour of pushing my temp reading is about 200 my preasure just borders the green. I have not put a preasure test kit on it yet but intend to. I was trying to weight the cost of repair to justfiy it . Under cairage is new, engine has about 2000 hrs from what I was told, it uses no oil and starts well even at temps in the 20 degree range. I have put about 200 hrs on it and all else seems fine. I have found some alunimum in the filter when I cut it open. It spins the tracks fine in first running into a clay bank applying upward preasure on the loader at 2100 rpms even at the 200 degree range. From what I read it could be a seal in the converter leaking enough so as to limit oil running threw the cooler.
-
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:08 pm
- Location: rhode island
those 555 series are my favorite machine,lots of people don't like them,but if you take care of them you can really run the hours up on them.
with a new undercarriage and it sounds like the machine is solid other than you problem your having.
is this your first torque converter machine,they do seem like their "slipping" if you are used to a reverser type drive.
with a new undercarriage and it sounds like the machine is solid other than you problem your having.
is this your first torque converter machine,they do seem like their "slipping" if you are used to a reverser type drive.
555 converter
This is my frst converter but I feel it change more so in second gear as preasure drops. Im not sure the converter is bad, I guess finding those shiny little tinkets in my filter has given reason for concern. Thanks for your imput it seems hard to find some one with experiance in these machines. I run this about 2100 rpm but when I change directions I use the foot pedel to drop my rpm before shifting my though being less wear & shock to the final.
-
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:08 pm
- Location: rhode island
if you haven't put a pressure guage on I would do that,those dash gauges are not to accurate,I am sure what you should be running for psi....someone here should be able to tell you.
how is the condition of your trans fluid,it gets old and starts breaking down from use and heat as well,when you say metal in the filter,how much are we talking about?
how is the condition of your trans fluid,it gets old and starts breaking down from use and heat as well,when you say metal in the filter,how much are we talking about?
Torque converter isn't your problem .If you have the combination of heat and some slip then your power shift packs are sliping if you have aluminum fileings then the piston inside the clutch pack is binding and this causes the piston to stop before it puts the proper pressure on the clutch pack when warming things up it starts bypassing oil faster than the oil jurnals will fill it back up The lighter the oil gets and the hotter the area gets the more the plates start slipping more and the Those plates will heat till they warp and the senario is in a big down hill slide at that point.Remember if you have oil heating problems then the problem is slip in the plates If a converter goes it goes with a thud and all comes to a dead stop but the engine People thought if you shook a converterand it rattled then it was a sign of no good .All converters rattle new and old alike don't let the sound fool you but a good way to tell if you have power shift slip is your oil will heat like crazy.Watch your shifts and watch your pressuresthis is the info you need for your trany problem solving forget theconverter .Digitup.
555 clutch patch
On start pressure is about 60 psi it dosn't seem to slip, forward or reverse shift seems fine. 1 hour after pushing temp is on the boarder and the preasure is about 10 lbs I get the faint smell of hot hyd oil. Forward & reverse acts the same as when it was cold, but there is a slight difference in second in the way it acts and first still spins tracks under load. And thow temp is at 200 the faint smell of oil leads me to believe its hotter some place then it is at the sending unit. The Deere dealer RDO owns all the dealer ships for 200 mls and has little time for this machine, will parts be hard to come by? and the price outway its value. Thanks Dave
All Deere dealers aren't the least interested in keeping old iron going as they arent selling new iron fixing old stuff I have a 4850 with very few actual hours on it the agricultural dealer I have whined about it beeing to old so I took it to a local jobber diesel mechanic for some minor repairs when I went back in to get settings and torque rates the parts and repair shop managers wondered why I didn't want to listen to there whine and they said take it somewhere else so I did .You would have a better chance in getting a equipment repair jobber in the area to fix it see if you can find one that is familiar with agricultural and some industrial equipment If you can't fix this your self. If you have the manuals it isn't that hard to do you need at least 120 # pressure to enguage the clutches and will find your clutch packs all will need new friction plates as well as steel plates if nthey got this hot they warp and you havesuch poor surfice tention thatyou are just cooking clutches with oil at this point .As far as parts avalibility and price get your manuals and look around Lavoy might be able to find parts as most will be gaskets seals and clutch surffices for that job .Get it apart and figure out what you need put a straight edge across all your clutch plates and anything with a slight warp is junk and must be replaced as well as piston seals and shaft seals .Get into it and see how bad the repair is that 555 is a great machine and you will be pleased with it when it is working right -Good luck .Digitup.
Thanks
I've been reading about it, its got me a little nervious I plan on doing the work myself and not quite sure what to look for or how far to dig in. I guess I'll just take the plunge and learn thanks for pointing me in a direction. Dave
Tranny parts shops can sell you the 'wand' tool for rolling seals into their bores...or you can make 'em yourself with some different gauge piano wire looped & crushed in a tube. Two liter bottles can be used as seal compressors in some instances as well. You WILL feel like a rocket scientist when you rework your first automatic type box!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 6 guests