We've been using our 440 pretty heavily recently to help dig a pond and the other day we broke a track pin. The pin was welded (by the PO) to hold it in place and it finally broke off. We have a spare track link w/ bushing and we just ordered two master link pins from Lavoy. The bushing is badly worn (much worse than the rest of them on the track) on the particular link that has the broken pin. Should we use the spare track link and cut the old one off or is there a way to save the badly worn bushing? Lavoy, if I understood you correctly you said we should just weld the old bushing to the existing track link? Any advice would be really appreciated!
The pics will tell the story much better:
440 track pin broken
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:38 pm
- Location: Shen. Valley, VA
440 track pin broken
1959 440 IC
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Looks like some one in the past had a problem with that pin. So instead of repairing it correctly (drawing out old pin replace broken parts, reassemble) they patched it with weld and hoped no one would notice.
If your trying to reuse, the bushing should be a press fit into the link. I dont know what kind of wear you will encounter with it loose. As I can see daylight past the old link in the rear.
Otherwise to reweld it, grind out all the old weld (the piece your hand is on) so that you can get good penetration. You may need to use a nickle based rod to reweld it. To me it looks as tho the weld held to the link but not the pin. Could be that the pin is hardened, hardened steel doesnt like welding.
If your trying to reuse, the bushing should be a press fit into the link. I dont know what kind of wear you will encounter with it loose. As I can see daylight past the old link in the rear.
Otherwise to reweld it, grind out all the old weld (the piece your hand is on) so that you can get good penetration. You may need to use a nickle based rod to reweld it. To me it looks as tho the weld held to the link but not the pin. Could be that the pin is hardened, hardened steel doesnt like welding.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:38 pm
- Location: Shen. Valley, VA
Our new track link has the bushing already in place and we were told by a guy who used to work on heavy equipment that it's almost impossible to get the bushing out of the track link if it was put in there by the factory. Is this true? Is there any way we could do all this with the tracks still on the crawler or is it just as easy to take them off, do the work, and put them back on? We're hoping to get it back in working order by the beginning of next week...our dirt pile being dug out with the backhoe is getting larger everyday!
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
1959 440 IC
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Supposedly, the bushing is a light press fit into the inside of the chain while the pin is a tight press fit through the outside links of the chain.
So here is the problem. To make it correct you are looking at needing to replace one link as the present one will need to go to a machine shop to be reworked to function as original.
Or, grind it down make it so you have something to get the new weld to stick to and reweld it. The problem is that it may hold up till the end of the season, it may hold up for the life time of your ownership. But the probability of it breaking again from a bandaid fix is almost guaranteed.
To do it right means you need to take your machine out of service. Take the track off and get it repinned and bushed. Then when it goes back on you can know with confidence (if it is done correctly) that you wont be looking at more down time because of a bandage.
Another problem your looking at is..... If some one welded one pin, there is a good chance you will find more.
So here is the problem. To make it correct you are looking at needing to replace one link as the present one will need to go to a machine shop to be reworked to function as original.
Or, grind it down make it so you have something to get the new weld to stick to and reweld it. The problem is that it may hold up till the end of the season, it may hold up for the life time of your ownership. But the probability of it breaking again from a bandaid fix is almost guaranteed.
To do it right means you need to take your machine out of service. Take the track off and get it repinned and bushed. Then when it goes back on you can know with confidence (if it is done correctly) that you wont be looking at more down time because of a bandage.
Another problem your looking at is..... If some one welded one pin, there is a good chance you will find more.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
Lets be real if you want to fix it "RIGHT" put a new bottom on it .
Bushings are worn out , links are most likely stretched thats why you see the air gap in picture
Bang link back on to the bushing - cut old weld out of pin link and put a good weld on pin link end, then tack weld bushing - call it day and save your part money until your ready to do whole job
Bushings are worn out , links are most likely stretched thats why you see the air gap in picture
Bang link back on to the bushing - cut old weld out of pin link and put a good weld on pin link end, then tack weld bushing - call it day and save your part money until your ready to do whole job
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