Cable size?
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Cable size?
As some of you are aware I am converting a tractor back from 12 volt to 6 volt. I would like to know what size of wire should I be using for the starter and ground?
I am leaning toward using solder slugs, as seen on this youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs
turn down your sound, its a little loud.
I am leaning toward using solder slugs, as seen on this youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs
turn down your sound, its a little loud.
Last edited by Willyr on Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
Herr Wilbanks has you going in the opposite direction, eh? I should think 2gauge, or larger. Myself, I'd go to a welding supply & acquire 0 gauge (but check your clearance along your routing path first). Welder cable has smaller individual strands, but many more of them, yielding a greater amp capacity & allowing a bit more flexibility than the battery cable variety.
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
LOL called the local alternator repair facility and asked him what size. He asked me what size I could get, I replied 4 ot. He said that was good but the satrter solenoid will stop some of those amps from getting through. Alas some one has goobered my post on the starter so I must stay with the solenoid.
According to Charlie I can not get the "post" that is supposed to be in the back of the starter. That the posts are not replacable, so I am stuck with the stud on my starter.
Otherwise I am looking at getting battery terminals off of these people.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d252.html
According to Charlie I can not get the "post" that is supposed to be in the back of the starter. That the posts are not replacable, so I am stuck with the stud on my starter.
Otherwise I am looking at getting battery terminals off of these people.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d252.html
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
Big batteries and big cables on a stock 6 volt Dubuque starter will eventually cost you a ring gear and/or nose cone. Nose cones are difficult at best to come by, and you have to split it to put in a ring gear, neither one a real fun option. If you must have lots of amps and lots of cable, then spend the extra money to have the starter converted to 12 volts. It is about a wash as far as money goes, cause when you break the nose cone off of your 6 volt starter, you will have to buy another starter anyway, and then have it converted to 12 volts.
Lavoy
Lavoy
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
the 4 ot wire was a joke. sorry you missed it.
I am going to use 2 ot welding wire. Uhh I didnt know I was using a oversized battery, and dont think I have ever posted such.
I am going to use 2 ot welding wire. Uhh I didnt know I was using a oversized battery, and dont think I have ever posted such.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:39 pm
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
So many folks have had the bright idea of changing from 6 to 12 volts on these with the thought that it will spin the engine over faster. That is likely why Lavoy thought it was another one.
12 back to 6 volts should be no issue as long as the old genny is still pumping juice. It is your choice of pos or neg grd, just polarize the genny prior to turning the switch. make sure your VR is dual, or, wire it for the plority of the VR.
The welding cables should work fine as long as you use a low spatter rod. (it's a joke)
12 back to 6 volts should be no issue as long as the old genny is still pumping juice. It is your choice of pos or neg grd, just polarize the genny prior to turning the switch. make sure your VR is dual, or, wire it for the plority of the VR.
The welding cables should work fine as long as you use a low spatter rod. (it's a joke)
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Oh dam forgot the low spatter rod. Was that the 7024??? I only have 6013 on hand and some 6010. They work well in my Raider 10kw with optional 3 phase leg.
The generator was purchased then sent up to Charlie with the regulator so the regulator could be tuned to the output of the generatior. At this time I am still waiting for Mcgrew Tractor to send me the hydraulic fitting that adapts the line to the pipe thread on the pump.
Saturday I should have all the parts to install my cheapo 6 volt battery. Once the battery is installed and I have the fitting I will idle the engine and cycle out the last of the bad hydraulic fluid. Shut the engine down, pour in some more fresh hydraulic oil and pump that down again. Hopefully I wont need to repeat a third time.
Then its to get the new 3 spool hydraulic valve mounted and plumbed. The hoses and cylinders are all drained. I will lay the cylinders on the tracks with lines on top to work the air out. Then when I am satisfied with that I will raise the blade, place jack stands under the arms and shut off the engine again.
The oil in that engine smelled like it had never been changed, my guess is the former owner could not find a 1-5/32" socket to fit the nut. So it has fresh oil in it now, that after the above has been done will be changed out for new fresh oil. I will run that oil till next summer (maybe 20 hours) and change it again. There after the oil will only be changed every 100 hours/
The generator was purchased then sent up to Charlie with the regulator so the regulator could be tuned to the output of the generatior. At this time I am still waiting for Mcgrew Tractor to send me the hydraulic fitting that adapts the line to the pipe thread on the pump.
Saturday I should have all the parts to install my cheapo 6 volt battery. Once the battery is installed and I have the fitting I will idle the engine and cycle out the last of the bad hydraulic fluid. Shut the engine down, pour in some more fresh hydraulic oil and pump that down again. Hopefully I wont need to repeat a third time.
Then its to get the new 3 spool hydraulic valve mounted and plumbed. The hoses and cylinders are all drained. I will lay the cylinders on the tracks with lines on top to work the air out. Then when I am satisfied with that I will raise the blade, place jack stands under the arms and shut off the engine again.
The oil in that engine smelled like it had never been changed, my guess is the former owner could not find a 1-5/32" socket to fit the nut. So it has fresh oil in it now, that after the above has been done will be changed out for new fresh oil. I will run that oil till next summer (maybe 20 hours) and change it again. There after the oil will only be changed every 100 hours/
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
Custom Battery Cables
Here is a great site for getting custom battery cables. I like buying marine parts when available. (I was a marine mechanic many years ago.) You buy all the parts you need on their site and these guys (or gals) will assemble it for you for $1.00 a connector! You can also choose welding cable if you are so inclined.
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Custom%20Cable%20Assembly/
If you only want to replace one connector and you don't have a cable crimper, they also offer that do-it-yourself kit with solder pellets and flux mentioned in the first post of this thread:
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20E ... k=30596195
And here is a repeat post of the video which shows you how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Custom%20Cable%20Assembly/
If you only want to replace one connector and you don't have a cable crimper, they also offer that do-it-yourself kit with solder pellets and flux mentioned in the first post of this thread:
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20E ... k=30596195
And here is a repeat post of the video which shows you how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs
JD 350B Diesel Crawler/Loader
AC H3 Gas Crawler/Loader
AC H3 Gas Crawler/Loader
home made battery cables
I have made alot of cables for my stuff. Its pretty easy. take some 0 or 00 cable-fine strand. cut to length. if you can't find ends that will work, you can make your own ends with 1/2 copper tubing. leave one end a tube, the other, smash flat. drill hole the appropriate size. put fine strand cable copper into home made eyelet. solder with propane torch and plumbing solder. ya can use colored shrink wrap to color for pos/neg. most times ya can hear the starter speed go up after replacing cables.
Make sure ground connection is clean and tight. make sure starter connection is clean and free of corrosion. tight is good too.
Yup these cables are overkill. they work, every time, don't break down and handle extended cranking sessions with a high compression big block thats out of time.
Make sure ground connection is clean and tight. make sure starter connection is clean and free of corrosion. tight is good too.
Yup these cables are overkill. they work, every time, don't break down and handle extended cranking sessions with a high compression big block thats out of time.
1950 mc crawling around
Re: home made battery cables
I have done this EXACT same thing! Absolutely works like a champ.monzanick wrote:I have made alot of cables for my stuff. Its pretty easy. take some 0 or 00 cable-fine strand. cut to length. if you can't find ends that will work, you can make your own ends with 1/2 copper tubing. leave one end a tube, the other, smash flat. drill hole the appropriate size. put fine strand cable copper into home made eyelet. solder with propane torch and plumbing solder. ya can use colored shrink wrap to color for pos/neg. most times ya can hear the starter speed go up after replacing cables...
.
Best regards,
Steve O.
1958 440IC w/ blade (602?)
Steve O.
1958 440IC w/ blade (602?)
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