New old dozer

[dedeye]

Well I finally own a John Deere Dozer, I am the proud second owner of a 1960 430c and what a beauty she is indeed! Oh she needs paint here and there and the previous owner constructed the most hideous logging boom on it but I have to give him credit he took good care of it untill his passing ten years ago. This is where the trouble beggins for my new baby. The guys daughter was the lucky recipient of the dozer at the time of his passing. Untill she got it the dozer had never spent a night out side. Since however it has not been inside at all! she told me she took it out of the shed because she was afraid the shed was going to fall in on it. The shed is still intact! Oh well
IN its life outside the exhaust was left uncovered and froze and broke the manifold. I hope this is where the damage stops. The engine is stuck but not for long I susspect. I am looking for good resources for parts and advice and am open to any and all suggestions.
thanks

[Lavoy]

I should have some new manifolds here this week, let me know what else you need.
Lavoy

[dedeye]

I probably ought to start my parts collection for this dozer with a repair manual. I know it needs all new black face gauges, and I am sure a host of other odds and ends.

In my search for information I have seen these units to have been said to be 6 volt pos. ground, I have seen some say 6 volt neg. ground and of course 12 volt neg ground. By the looks of the starter wire on it I would say I am not the first to be confused. I have a pretty good idea it is 6 volt because it has a generator on it and the starter appears to be 6 volt as well. wher they all 6 volt pos ground?

New exhaust manifold $? and how do I order parts?
thanks
Dan

[Lavoy]

Dan,
I have service manuals on hand, no parts manuals right now.
System was 6 volt, positive ground.
Manifold is $130 + frieght.
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Oh, dear. I hate to have to say it, but the 2-cyls have this tendency to stop with the #1 exhaust valve open. In my experience the water flows into the cylinder. When it freezes and expands, then the top of the piston breaks, the valve gets bent, along with the rocker arm, rocker arm shaft and pushrod.

I hope all this didn't happen, of course, but I'd not put any money on it....



BTW, I put rain cans over the stacks even when they're parked under cover because I don't ever want to have to deal with this particular mess ever again. :p

Stan

[JD430C]

hi dan, glad to see that another john deere crawler got saved from the junk man. i have some used parts if lavoy doesnt have what u need.


andrew

[dedeye]

Well today I got out of work early and pulled the spark plugs and filled the
cylinders with marvel mystery oil and P.B. Blaster. The rear cyl only took about a half cup of fluid the front cyl took about 1/2 quart or so. I can be at least optimistic that the front piston is not broken at least it held fluid. Then I pulled the valve cover off . The only surprise in there was how perfectly clean everything was! not one ounce of crud or grime! Both intake valves were stuck but after one light tap on each with a rubber mallett got them free as a bird. I have noticed that a lot of the fluid I put in the front cyl has gone into the base. This concerns me. it took about 20 minutes for the cyl to drain so I am hopeful it is only stuck rings. I will keep my fingers crossed.

I must say that the sentiments found on this board are as comforting as a card for a sick loved one.
It is because of this that my sick dozer will surely recover and take it's rightful place as boss of all my toys big and small!

I shall try to figure out how to post a picture of this ugly looking thing. I am sure rebuilding the engine will be far less challenging.
Dan

[Howard Yoder]

since the guy was using this for logging does it happen to have forks on the front and are they original? If so could you take some pictures and post them? Thanks

[dedeye]

dozer has a model 62 blade on the front.

[Stan Disbrow]

I have noticed that a lot of the fluid I put in the front cyl has gone into the base. This concerns me. it took about 20 minutes for the cyl to drain so I am hopeful it is only stuck rings. I will keep my fingers crossed.

Dan

Hi,

Mine are crossed for you as well - that it has stuck rings and not cracks all over the top of the piston....

Stan

[Lavoy]

Not to pee in your cornflakes, but a cracked piston would be the least of my worries. Pistons are cheap, it would be the block I am worried about. It is more likely to break the cylinder walls out than to hurt the piston. Just as well pull the head right away and see what the cylinder walls look like. If you really think it may have frozen, I would pull the engine apart, and have the block cooked and magnafluxed. Also have the bore miced, I think you will be suprised at the amount of taper unless it has been bored in the past.
Lavoy

[dedeye]

lavoy
I have had pee in my cornflakes before. after you choke down the first bite the rest of the bowl is easy! I know what you mean though. I had an old militatary generator with a 4 cyl. hercules engine on it that was stuck. I thought it was history without even taking it apart and looking. A buddy wanted it so I gave it to him. He put it in his garage and thawed it out as it was winter and a week later the thing was running like new. Makes me sick to even mention it! As far as my new project goes I am a fairley level headed realist and expect the thing has some internal damage. I will take it apart and have it tanked and tested. Some clues that cause me to be optimistic is there was not one drop of water in the carb or corrosion, the radiator is full of antifreeze but the base is not.I filled the front cylinder with marvel mystery oil last night and it was still full when I got home from work today........
In the event I do need a new motor, any suggestions on where I might get a good one or places to avoid looking?
Thanks again
Dan

[Lavoy]

I might have a block left, let me know if you find yours is bad.
Lavoy

[lastchancegarage]

Dan,
One suggestion I might make before tearing everything apart, if you can get the engine loose enough to crank it by hand, is to try pressure testing the cylinders with the radiator cap removed. Turn the engine over until you have a cylinder halfway up on the compression stroke (with the valve cover off it'll be easier to determine). Tee in a pressure guage so you can maintain about 200 psi and watch (or have someone else watch) to see if either bubbles or water level rises in the radiator. Stuck rings could account for the slow leakage into the base but you also used PB Blaster which I'm sure thinned out the marvel even more. Watching the fluid level while pressurizing the cylinders would definitely reveal any blowouts in the water jacket. If you're doing this solo and can't be in two places at once, just carefully fill the radiator to the top without going over. If it overflows you'll know there's a leak somewhere. If it's a rapid rise, I'd suspect a plown wall as Lavoy pointed out. If it's a very slow rise, that might be attributed to a head gasket leak. If you can get the engine loose enough to run a normal set of compression checks, that could help in your further assessment of the engine's internal condition. If you can get hold of some Kroil, I'd squirt that in the cylinders to try to loosen the rings. That stuff seems to be able to get into anywhere. Just some ideas to try. Good luck.

Scott

BTW...I wonder what that boom would look like blasted and painted JD yellow?... It's a brutal but interesting piece of work.

[dedeye]

I finaly found enough time to get the Cyl head off the old blister today. The valves are a little crusty but other wise no obvious damage.
Lavoy I will be getting with you soon with a list of needed parts.
Thanks
Dan