350C, Replaced the governor ring and have only high RPM
350C, Replaced the governor ring and have only high RPM
Hi all,
Argh, the title pretty much says it all and the worst thing is I can't blame it on anyone else.....
Anyway, I just replaced the governor and various O rings then reinstalled it. When it starts it appears to go full throttle and the throttle has no effect.
I've worked on a bunch of other stuff (Several years as a professional auto mechanic) but this is the first injection pump I've ever worked on. I did use the Deere manual (SM 2045 IIRC, it's in the shop) and most everything went together like I thought it should except in the manual the throttle linkage and the advance pistons are on opposite sides in the pics where it is all going back together so being honest there is a chance I reversed something but other than making sure the hooks face forward on the throttle shaft lever I'm not sure what I could have messed up.
Anyway, I'm going to go back out and take off the top governor cover and just check everything over to see if I missed anything, but if the learned here have suggestions of where to check specifically I'd appreciate it.
The only thing that did not go according to plan was one of the nuts on the governor arm pivot shaft sheared off (well technically the shaft sheared I guess) anyway, so I had to reinstall that using epoxy so if I do not have to remove that it would be a great help. (I believe when I get a new pivot shaft I can remove the epoxy to get the old shaft free and use the new shaft to push the old one out but at this point I need the crawler too much for it to be down another couple weeks while I find a new shaft).
Anyway, any and all suggestions/help is appreciated at this point. I'll post what it looks like under the cover and just double check everything there.
Thanks for reading!
Mark
Argh, the title pretty much says it all and the worst thing is I can't blame it on anyone else.....
Anyway, I just replaced the governor and various O rings then reinstalled it. When it starts it appears to go full throttle and the throttle has no effect.
I've worked on a bunch of other stuff (Several years as a professional auto mechanic) but this is the first injection pump I've ever worked on. I did use the Deere manual (SM 2045 IIRC, it's in the shop) and most everything went together like I thought it should except in the manual the throttle linkage and the advance pistons are on opposite sides in the pics where it is all going back together so being honest there is a chance I reversed something but other than making sure the hooks face forward on the throttle shaft lever I'm not sure what I could have messed up.
Anyway, I'm going to go back out and take off the top governor cover and just check everything over to see if I missed anything, but if the learned here have suggestions of where to check specifically I'd appreciate it.
The only thing that did not go according to plan was one of the nuts on the governor arm pivot shaft sheared off (well technically the shaft sheared I guess) anyway, so I had to reinstall that using epoxy so if I do not have to remove that it would be a great help. (I believe when I get a new pivot shaft I can remove the epoxy to get the old shaft free and use the new shaft to push the old one out but at this point I need the crawler too much for it to be down another couple weeks while I find a new shaft).
Anyway, any and all suggestions/help is appreciated at this point. I'll post what it looks like under the cover and just double check everything there.
Thanks for reading!
Mark
Here is an update:
I pulled the governor cover off just to check everything and I did not see anything out of the ordinary that jumped out at me-
To make a long story short, I gave the governor fork a nudge with a screwdriver to check for movement when it gave a "click" and jumped a tiny bit and started moving freely, so I screwed the cover back on and it started up and gave me a nice idle speed. So then I advanced the lever and it speed went back up but didn't come back down again, so I still need to poke at it some more but at least now I am optimistic since not only does it run but I'm hopeful that when it is daylight I should be able to see where it is hanging up. There is a chance a little blob of epoxy might be causing it, but of course in daylight you can see so much more so I'll find out tomorrow!
I pulled the governor cover off just to check everything and I did not see anything out of the ordinary that jumped out at me-
To make a long story short, I gave the governor fork a nudge with a screwdriver to check for movement when it gave a "click" and jumped a tiny bit and started moving freely, so I screwed the cover back on and it started up and gave me a nice idle speed. So then I advanced the lever and it speed went back up but didn't come back down again, so I still need to poke at it some more but at least now I am optimistic since not only does it run but I'm hopeful that when it is daylight I should be able to see where it is hanging up. There is a chance a little blob of epoxy might be causing it, but of course in daylight you can see so much more so I'll find out tomorrow!
Well the update for today is not too good. I pulled the cover off and the governor weight retainer appears to be broken off from the rest of the ring. I have the pump off but of course the rest of the day is filled with real work so hopefully I can take it apart this evening and see what all the damage is.
The steel governor weight-cage is attached to the pump-rotor with solid steel. I doubt it can break off. The pump drive-shaft would snap in two first. Any chance you left the snap-ring off in there?MarkW wrote:Well the update for today is not too good. I pulled the cover off and the governor weight retainer appears to be broken off from the rest of the ring. I have the pump off but of course the rest of the day is filled with real work so hopefully I can take it apart this evening and see what all the damage is.
Boy I wish it was as simple as me forgetting a snap ring!
I got it disassembled a little while ago and here is the damage:
The lower governor ring was still held on by the snap ring, but as you can see there was quite a bit going on there. I've been trying to figure out how all this happened, as I hadn't forced anything (the pump slipped on quite easily). The best I can come up with is the governor thrust sleeve is not only quite thin (0.20 but that may be normal) but it appears it may have started to have a fatigue crack:
Other than that, I am hopeful the other damage will not cause an issue.
There is a crack in the housing:
Sooo, at this point it looks like I will need a new weight cage, a replacement flyweight (I see where some are different sizes, should I weight an unbroken one?), and a new governor thrust sleeve. If possible I'd like to get a new pivot shaft as well, but I am hopeful that is all I will need. I was deciding earlier whether or not to upgrade to a new-style solid governor ring, I guess the choice will be easier now!
I'll also need a half box of Q-tips and a can of carburetor cleaner to make sure I've gotten all the metal bits out, but if anyone has any other hints/suggestions, especially where to get these parts, I'd really appreciate hearing them. (Lavoy, do you have these parts?)
And once again Lavoy, thanks for hosting this site as this is really a great resource!
I got it disassembled a little while ago and here is the damage:
The lower governor ring was still held on by the snap ring, but as you can see there was quite a bit going on there. I've been trying to figure out how all this happened, as I hadn't forced anything (the pump slipped on quite easily). The best I can come up with is the governor thrust sleeve is not only quite thin (0.20 but that may be normal) but it appears it may have started to have a fatigue crack:
Other than that, I am hopeful the other damage will not cause an issue.
There is a crack in the housing:
Sooo, at this point it looks like I will need a new weight cage, a replacement flyweight (I see where some are different sizes, should I weight an unbroken one?), and a new governor thrust sleeve. If possible I'd like to get a new pivot shaft as well, but I am hopeful that is all I will need. I was deciding earlier whether or not to upgrade to a new-style solid governor ring, I guess the choice will be easier now!
I'll also need a half box of Q-tips and a can of carburetor cleaner to make sure I've gotten all the metal bits out, but if anyone has any other hints/suggestions, especially where to get these parts, I'd really appreciate hearing them. (Lavoy, do you have these parts?)
And once again Lavoy, thanks for hosting this site as this is really a great resource!
I'm going to guess. I suspect you forgot to tie the throttle back with that governor thrust-button in place. That's a must until the driveshaft is put in place. You make sure the two grooves in that thrust button are engaged with the big swing-arm and tie the throttle shaft back to "full" position so spring pressure holds it in place.MarkW wrote:Boy I wish it was as simple as me forgetting a snap ring!
I got it disassembled a little while ago and here is the damage:
jdemaris wrote:MarkW wrote:Well the update for today is not too good.
If you have trouble buying the new small parts - you might be better off buying a parts pump for $50. Like this right now on Ebay. It's a DBM but I suspect the parts you need are the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanadyne-Diese ... 4cfca3dd39
jdemaris wrote:Jdemaris thanks for the great suggestion!jdemaris wrote:MarkW wrote:Well the update for today is not too good.
If you have trouble buying the new small parts - you might be better off buying a parts pump for $50. Like this right now on Ebay. It's a DBM but I suspect the parts you need are the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanadyne-Diese ... 4cfca3dd39
I had thought myself into a corner as I figured at this stage to get a new style solid cage, so I might as well order all the other stuff too. (In case anyone is wondering, those 4 parts are about $110 but the cage is $50 of that)
Anyway, after looking on ebay I decided to give a local scrap/junk dealer a call and he happens to have a core "roosa master" pump there, so I am going there in the morning. If I could get this running by the afternoon it would be one more headache gone on the list. ( need to get this running and dragging some dead trees out of the woods before I run out of firewood!).
Oh, and you were correct that I did not tie back the throttle. just goes to show you that you are never too old to screw up! (Also to emphasize the "RTFM" a couple more times as well)
Thanks again, I'll post tomorrow after I see if the other parts will fit.
Well woohoo, I picked up the pump in the morning and had my 350 running in the afternoon! Probably the thing that took the most time was digging the epoxy out of the pivot shaft ends, as that got replaced too.
Got some gravel from the creek and put it over the mud holes in the driveway and dragged a tree off the hill, and all seems to be operating OK, though now the left steering lever goes back a little further than the right one does, so I guess that is next on the agenda at some point but for right now I'm just happy to have it back up and running!
Got some gravel from the creek and put it over the mud holes in the driveway and dragged a tree off the hill, and all seems to be operating OK, though now the left steering lever goes back a little further than the right one does, so I guess that is next on the agenda at some point but for right now I'm just happy to have it back up and running!
Thank you Matt, that is a very nice gesture!
However, if I pull this apart again I will also put a solid weight retainer in it. I did find it interesting that even with only a few hours of exposure to diesel fuel the ring has changed noticeably. It was definitely less transparent than it was originally, and I suspect the ID was less than original by a hair which also suggests that it has swelled slightly.
At any rate, I again thank you for the offer!
Sincerely,
Mark
However, if I pull this apart again I will also put a solid weight retainer in it. I did find it interesting that even with only a few hours of exposure to diesel fuel the ring has changed noticeably. It was definitely less transparent than it was originally, and I suspect the ID was less than original by a hair which also suggests that it has swelled slightly.
At any rate, I again thank you for the offer!
Sincerely,
Mark
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