I've been searching for good set of tracks for my 1010 crawler-loader. I had a deal all set to buy a brand new set of Berco tracks with sprockets for $1500. Then the day before I was going to get them, someone else showed up and got them. I guess I didn't move fast enough. By the way, these were new but in storage for at least 10 years. I'm not sure they are even available anymore.
So, then I considered making my own pins and bushings. I priced out the materials. It would cost me $800 total for the pin stock, DOM tubing, and hardening after I cut everything. But my track chains are pretty worn so I decided to try to find better complete tracks somewhere.
Next step was MacFaddens tractor salvage year 20 miles from me in Sharon Springs, NY. He's got a dozen 1010s there along with many 420s, 440s, 350s, etc. He gave me a price of $1000 for any set of tracks - but I couldn't find much worth buying except for some tracks with two-bolt pads that were 10" wide. Maybe off a 420 or 440? My 1010 has four bolt pads that are 12" wide.
I offered MacFadden some tractors in trade for tracks. I had three Case DC tractors here and the scrap value alone was $550 each. He said he'd call me back the next day and . . . he never called.
So then I called another big tractor salvage yard 60 miles from me. Smiley's in Freehold, NY. He told me he had a set of tracks almost like "new" and he wanted $1500. I then told him about the Case DCs. He offered to trade me even and he'd deliver the tracks. I said OK.
Next morning he shows up and sees a 4th tractor here he wants. A Case VAC-14. It was a junker. So, we got all done - he took four tractors - and I got two tracks and an extra $500 cash. As soon as he left - I looked closed at the tracks. Every pin was welded to the chain, the chains were broken in three places, and all the bushings were loose and wobbling inside the track-chains. I was really ticked off. At him and myself for trusting someone again. I hate to get to a point that I refuse ever to trust anyone - but I'm getting close.
So, I called him up. He claimed loose bushings don't hurt a thing and I could easily weld the broken links. Yeah, right! So, I loaded them up and drove to his yard. I gave him back the tracks and told him he owed me $1500. He then said he had better tracks. Well? Every set he had was torched off the crawlers and were worn out anyway. He claimed that "everyone" takes off tracks that way. Yeah, OK.
Finally, I spotted a 1010 dozer half-hidden. Outside blade machine. The tracks were like new and all original with tight headed masterpins. They have 14" snow-grousers which is kind of nice. I told him I wanted those tracks and he said they can't be removed without being torched off. So, I grabbed a sledge and a long bolt and had them both off half an hour. He then seemed hesitant to let me have them - but I did get them and left. Never again am I going through this nonsense.
These ARE nice tracks. One thing though. I just discovered that 14" pads won't fit a 1010 crawler loader. The inside arms of the loader will hit. So, I'm going to torch one inch of the inside of all the pads. So I guess they will be 13" wide. A little uneven but I can't see where that can hurt and I also can't see wasting time torching the outside to make them an even 12".
1010 track quest - what a day!
What a hassle, but at least you ended up with a good set for your crawler.
I recently bought a 350 loader with new dozer pads that are too wide and have been hitting hard on the loader frame. I am not a welder and would like to know how big of a cutting job that was/is cutting off the inside inch? I am also assuming that the pads can stay on the crawler when cutting them??
Scott
I recently bought a 350 loader with new dozer pads that are too wide and have been hitting hard on the loader frame. I am not a welder and would like to know how big of a cutting job that was/is cutting off the inside inch? I am also assuming that the pads can stay on the crawler when cutting them??
Scott
450`s c-dozer 6 way, b-loader.
350`s c-loader + ripper, b-loader with winch arch. B-loader with dozer pads
backhoe attachment.
1010 loader with forks for round bales
a few 610 Bobcats. many attachments
350`s c-loader + ripper, b-loader with winch arch. B-loader with dozer pads
backhoe attachment.
1010 loader with forks for round bales
a few 610 Bobcats. many attachments
I have the same situation right now. I need to remove 1" from the inside of all the pads. I'm just going to use a torch with the tracks on the machine. I was considering widening the track frame distance to make them fit - but decided the heck with it. Much less work just to cut the inside inch off. With a bit cutting tip, it'll take a few minutes per pad, and there's 36 per side. I wish I didn't have to go it, but oh well.Scottyb wrote:What a hassle, but at least you ended up with a good set for your crawler.
I recently bought a 350 loader with new dozer pads that are too wide and have been hitting hard on the loader frame. I am not a welder and would like to know how big of a cutting job that was/is cutting off the inside inch? I am also assuming that the pads can stay on the crawler when cutting them??
Scott
What a hassle- I can sympathize because I have the same kind of luck finding good track links for early 2010. Unfortunately with the 2010 the late sprockets are near impossible to find so have to stick with early links instead of upgrading to 350 tracks.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 am
- Location: Granby,Québec, Canada
Make a JIG
Make a jig that you can mount your torch in. Make it a very tight fit that the you can slide the tracks under and keep it straight. If you had access to a plasma cutter that would be best!!
If man can break it man can fix it .. it just takes time and money.
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:00 am
- Location: WY or NH
Find someone with a 50amp or bigger plasma cutter and it will make the job massively easier and the end result will look a lot cleaner. I'd make a block you can slide the plasma torch along to keep the cut straight and an even depth on each pad. Chunk of 2x6 ripped down to the width you need should work well enough.
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