Widening tracks on a 1010 ??

[jdemaris]

I wondering if anyone has ever tried to widen the distance between the tracks on a 1010? I'm considering trying it on mine. It's a 1960 crawler loader and came with 12" pads. I'm trying to put some new tracks on it from a dozer with 14" pads. I lack clearance against the loader boom. I think all I need is an extra 3/8" to 1/2". I kind of hate to torch all 72 of the pads on one side. So I'm thinking of making shims and shimming out the track-frame and the sprockets. Just wondering if anyone else has tried this?
I can't see where shimming out the sprocket can hurt anything as long as it's still hitting the three locator dowells.

[JWB Contracting]

Just torch your pads. I picked up a set of 50% rails with 24" pads that they were going to thru in the scrap bin at work. We torched to fit our 450C loader cat and they worked just fine.

Pardee Equipment in Edmonton tried to wide out 350's and 450's in the early 80's instead of going to the full 33" outside mount bearning kit with no sucess. Too hard on the sprokets and final drives.

It could work if your sproket is currently dished in wards and you dished it outwards and the build yourself new front and rear cross members. Again, lots of work and i don't see the pay off for maining the wider tracks on a loader machine.

Growser bar pads are tough steering cluches. I notice the difficulty turning on our 450C loader and with dry cluches on a 1010 might be a hell of a lot harder on your machine. You might want to round the corners down on the growsers as well.

[jdemaris]

Just torch your pads. I picked up a set of 50% rails with 24" pads that they were going to thru in the scrap bin at work. We torched to fit our 450C loader cat and they worked just fine.


Growser bar pads are tough steering cluches. I notice the difficulty turning on our 450C loader and with dry cluches on a 1010 might be a hell of a lot harder on your machine. You might want to round the corners down on the growsers as well.

I know what high grousers are like on loaders. We sold a few 350s and 450s new that way on special order. They really tear the ground up.
Not the kind of thing you want to be making sharp turns with and loading fill all day long with.

In my case, I use my 1010 as much in the woods dragging logs around as I do as a dirt-mover. I've wanted more traction for a long time so the dozer high-grousers will be welcome.

As to widening - it's much different with a 1010 then it is with a 350. I can shim out the sprocket and the track frame. It is somewhat adjustable. You can't do that with a 350. It would require different cross-bars. I've worked on many wide-track 350s.

As to torching - I know I can torch off the pads with no ill effects. I just hate to do it. They are 14" snow-grousers and I don't come across them too often. They are also almost like new. I know I can torch off one inch on the inside of each track and I'll be fine. I'm just hesitant to do it. It upsets my sense of - well . . . I'm not sure? Who knows? Maybe I'll change my mind and put a torch to them.

[Lavoy]

On occasion I can get new 12" grouser pads, maybe someone would want your 14" pads.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

On occasion I can get new 12" grouser pads, maybe someone would want your 14" pads.
Lavoy[/quote

The salvage yard 20 miles from me has several 440/1010 tracks with the standard 12" grouser pads (not snow pads). But there's 288 track bolts and nuts to cut off and replace with new. Not something I'm eager to do. That's over $600 worth of bolts and oxy/acetylene gas.

[whiteclipse16]

Hey jde, it might be difficult to get all the measurements and info, and it may not even be possible but the earlier 440's used a deeper dish sprocket. I think Lavoy said the very late 440 and very early 1010 used the same final and shallow dish sprocket. You might be able to pick up the deeper dish sprocket for a 440 and make it work. If I remember right it's and 1 1/2" difference between the deep to shallow sprocket. That's only 3/4" per side, might be what you need.

[Lavoy]

Seems to me I sell a nut and bolt set for $200 or so. Gas to cut them off will be a lot less than cutting pads if you went that route.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

Hey jde, it might be difficult to get all the measurements and info, and it may not even be possible but the earlier 440's used a deeper dish sprocket. I think Lavoy said the very late 440 and very early 1010 used the same final and shallow dish sprocket. You might be able to pick up the deeper dish sprocket for a 440 and make it work. If I remember right it's and 1 1/2" difference between the deep to shallow sprocket. That's only 3/4" per side, might be what you need.

I think I only need 3/8" of an inch. So I'm going to try putting a 3/8" stack of hardened washers behind the sprocket and use longer mounting bolts. Originals are 9/16" X 1 1/2 grade 5. I bought some 9/16" X 2" Grade 9. I am also going to make a 3/8" thick shim for the track-frame mount. The four bolts on each side from Deere were 1 3/4" X 5/8" grade 5. I got some new bolts 2 1/4" long X 5/8" Grade 9. Seems this should work, but we'll see.

[caribcanuck]

I would use a actual 3/8 flat steel spacer rather than washers. The reduced surface contact area from using washers is gonna put alot of stress on the bolts ,threads and bolt holes. Using a flat spacer would maintian the origanal surface contact area and have a better chance of working. Just mu two cents.

Caribcanuck

[JWB Contracting]

We're fairly old school when removing rusted or ruined pad bolts plus using the cutting torch adds cost.

We take a large chisel held by a large pair of vice grips and the biggest hammer you can swing with one hand and split the nuts.

Once you get the first few split you get the feel of how hard to wack them. I did stop a few times to rest last time I did it.

This is of course with the track split and laying on its side.

[jdemaris]

We're fairly old school when removing rusted or ruined pad bolts plus using the cutting torch adds cost.

We take a large chisel held by a large pair of vice grips and the biggest hammer you can swing with one hand and split the nuts.

Years back I had to go the track shop to pick up some tracks for somebody. Two huge guys, working outside, were knocking off pad bolts with just one or two swings. They were knockiing off the bolt-heads - not the nuts. One guy had a big sledge hammer and other guy held a big chisel. It was amazing how fast they worked. Not a job I'd want though. I'm not huge and I'm not young. Also that was 30 years ago. Now adays with all the silly safety rules - I wonder in OSHA even allows it.

[jdemaris]

I would use a actual 3/8 flat steel spacer rather than washers. The reduced surface contact area from using washers is gonna put alot of stress on the bolts ,threads and bolt holes. Using a flat spacer would maintian the origanal surface contact area and have a better chance of working. Just mu two cents.

Caribcanuck

I got military spec grade 9 hardened thick washers - .190" thick each and each face meets miltary specs for flatness. Better then any spacer I'm going to make. 65 cents each. Only takes two on each bolt to get my 3/8" of an inch.

[Gil]

I actually used 3/4” spacers on each bolt to extend a shallow dish JD440 sprocket once. It worked that way for many years but I am sure it put a lot of strain on the bolts, holes, and threads. I REALLY like Caribcanuck’s suggestion of using a flat spacer. If you used a plate of steel with multiple holes for the studs and bolts, it would give a lot more support. Gil

[jdemaris]

I actually used 3/4” spacers on each bolt to extend a shallow dish JD440 sprocket once. It worked that way for many years but I am sure it put a lot of strain on the bolts, holes, and threads. I REALLY like Caribcanuck’s suggestion of using a flat spacer. If you used a plate of steel with multiple holes for the studs and bolts, it would give a lot more support. Gil

My main concern is the three 7/8" diameter dowel pins that the sprockets sit on. They take much of the torsional load. When I space sprocket out by 3/8" - they will still be IN the sprocket for a 1/4".

[Lavoy]

Are your axels doweled, or do you have the later style replacement axle wth the three large shouldered bolts?
Lavoy