need advice on Case 580CK

[townlineterry]

Have a 1971 Case 580 CK backhoeloader with a 188 diesel. Recently rebuilt the motor, runs great, except getting fuel in the crankcase. The problem is the umbrella seals on the injector pump drive shaft is leaking. We have managed to trash three sets of seals when reinstalling the pump.

I have the proper tools, the shaft sleeve and the seal compressor and lubed the crap out of the seals

Anybody have any tips or tricks?

I know that the seals will leak if the pump is worn, but that is not the problem, it did not leak when we tore the moter down. When I pulled the pump off after the rebiuld the damage to the seals was visisble. What are we doing wrong?

Appricate any help.

Terry

[LeonardL]

Obviously it has to be happening on the install. I am assuming this is the first seal on the shaft? Your seals should be installed this way, the first seal should face with the lip or cup toward the pump bore and the second seal should be facing toward the front end of the shaft or away from the pump. Like this, ")" towards the front and like this, "(". Towards the pump.
If this is okay, then check the bushing on the inside of your pump to make sure you don't have a "Bir" or a crack causing the damage. If this is all good and the inside is good and smooth then here is how I do them.
I install these without using the special tools. I know some of these guys will say how silly I am for not using them but here is why I don't. I have torn more seals by using the compressor than I have by free handing the pump back into place.
What I try to do is simply work that first seal, the one that always tears, into the bore while holding the pump as straight and steady as possible. I use a small mirror to insure that I have the lip of the seal going in to the bore all the way around the inside surface of the bore. This is tricky but it can be done. Once I have the seal lip inside the bore and start applying some forward pressure and at the same time still working the seal with my fingers to insure is isn't trying to double over and get damaged. Usually the pump will then slide forward and over the seal. Once that occurs I will work the pump back and forth slightly to make certain the seal is sliding inside the bore. Again this takes some patient handling. Don't work it back far enough to let the seal come back out but just enough to know it is sliding freely inside the bore. Once you have done this, the other seal should be in a reversed or opposite direction of the first seal and it should slide in with out difficulty. Reversed meaning the lip of the seal should face forward.
I'm sure some of these other guys will have a better answer for you but this is how I do this style of pump. The key here is patients! Don't rush through the install. Take your time and watch that first seal. Once you are certain it is going in straight and true then the rest is easy.
I always remove the injector lines as well. I get them as far out of my way as possible. It adds a little time but it affords you more room to see what is going on.

[townlineterry]

Thanks, I will give it a try.

[H-D]

I've never dealt with one of these pumps, but for automatic transmission seal installation, I've found Mylar sheeting from chip bags, balloons, etc. to be of great help. Cheap too!