advice on Gramps 40c

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
Choppo
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:04 pm

Post by Choppo » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:30 pm

Yup

Found out what some of whatever is hitting. Just took off inspection plate and looked - the linkage for the foot brake let go, got grabbed and now has a 180% bend in it. It is the rod that runs down the back side of the final drive connecting the rocker arm at the top to the rod that runs out to the foot pedel.

I think you gave me good advice Lavoy. You get what you pay for. If I take it apart I will be rebuilding it new and if I do that maybe should be looking at both sides.

Cam

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 11117
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:31 pm

What you inevitably find is that once you rebuild one clutch, the glaring difference between it and the other non-rebuilt side will drive you nuts.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

whiteclipse16
2010 crawler
2010 crawler
Posts: 626
Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 am
Location: Steubenville, OH

Post by whiteclipse16 » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:54 am

In all honesty I don't think pulling the final and doing the clutches is that bad.
The bad part is splitting the track, but if your running it the master pin may not be froze and it may not be that difficult to split. However you may have difficulty getting the final to separate from the steering clutch housing.
Just make sure you get the gauge to set the pressure plate fingers from Lavoy, it's a must.
Ben

Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring

Choppo
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:04 pm

Post by Choppo » Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:26 am

Guess Lavoy and I need to talk turkey about prices. The crawler "works" now but it could easily leave me sittin somewhere and I can see Lavoy being right about one old one new. Also it would be alot easier to drive if it worked properly.

Other than the guage for setting the clutch up is there any other special tools needed? Will a regular gear puller work for pulling the clutch off the final drive?

I just realized that if Im into the clutch I should look at the seals and bearings as well. How far into the finals should I be going. I think that one of the old local mechanics rebuilt these clutches so maybe he looked at the bearings back then. This machine wouldnt have had very much work since then at all.

I also noticed that the tractor frame has cracks starting up from the bottom where it flares out wider just ahead of the back sprockets. Might have to deal with that as well.

Cam

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 11117
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Thu Aug 23, 2012 3:54 pm

No puller needed for clutches, they just unbolt. I never do a final drive without at least looking at the pinion shaft, seal and bearings. There is no way to work on it after the final is reinstalled, so better do it while it is off. Normally, I end up rebuilding the final while it is off, just one less thing to worry about later.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests