2010 crawler - Hydraulic track tension cylinder removal
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:50 pm
2010 crawler - Hydraulic track tension cylinder removal
I’ve look the message board over looking for a method for removing the hydraulic track tension cylinder. Most post already have the cylinder off or was broken. The service manual I have doesn’t go into detail about removing the cylinder. Mine is leaking grease out the back of the cylinder. Do I have to remove the track to pull the cylinder? Once off where would I go about getting seals? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
As anytime with parts check with Lavoy before going to Deere if you can handle the shipping time. If they are just O-ring seals you might try a local hydraulic repair shop first.
Bryce
Bryce
No trees were hurt in the creation of this message.
But, many electrons were terribly bothered.
440IC/602, 2-440ICD/831 MM UBU-LP, 445N-LP, 445E-LP, BIG MO 400-M, 4 Star-LP M5-D, M5-LP, M602-LP, M670-LP, G900-LP, G900-D, G1000 Vista-LP Case 580CK
But, many electrons were terribly bothered.
440IC/602, 2-440ICD/831 MM UBU-LP, 445N-LP, 445E-LP, BIG MO 400-M, 4 Star-LP M5-D, M5-LP, M602-LP, M670-LP, G900-LP, G900-D, G1000 Vista-LP Case 580CK
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
hydraulic track tension cylinder
I was able to remove a cylinder on a 1010c without taking the track off. I pulled the idler forward with a comealong as far as possible and colapsing the cylinder. Keep in mind, my pins/bushings were totaly worn out, allowing me to pull the idler almost off the rail. Greg
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
You can remove off a 2010 without splitting tracks as well as long as you remove the four bolts at the front idler brackets AND able to slide the hydraulic cylinder piston beyond the sleeve bracket aligning it with the spring assembly. You would have to retract the piston fully to get it out. It is certainly easier with the track split so you can slide the front idler totally forward.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I'm not familiar with these cylinders or the seals that they use but I found that Chicago Rawhide has a fantastic parts cross reference manual available online for free. Might be worth a try. I was able to.cross reference all the John Deere bearing and seal numbers that I needed for my reverser on my 420 to CR or SKF numbers.
Larry
Larry
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
hydraulic track tension cylinder
When I removed my leaking cylinder,(1010C) I was surprised to find a dust/wiper seal to the outside and brass used as the pressure leak seal. The outer seal was bad, allowing grime to foul the inner seal. After cleaning and springing the brass a bit larger, replacing the outer seal, installed and adjusted, I have a good cylinder. I removed a leaker from another 1010C and found a common looking seal. Perhaps someone can tell me if the brass was a factory deal or a machine shop replacement. Thanks, Greg
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
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- 430 crawler
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:14 pm
- Location: Western MA
I have a track tensioner on my 2010 that is totally seized. Problem is it is seized with the track super tight. I'm almost wondering if its worth cutting the adjuster into pieces with a torch and removing it. Then I should be about replace it with a new one.
I tried to compress it with a come along then a chain and binder. And I even parked the 2010 against a stump and push on the front idler with my IH500 dozer and it will not budge.
I tried to compress it with a come along then a chain and binder. And I even parked the 2010 against a stump and push on the front idler with my IH500 dozer and it will not budge.
IH 500 6-day dozer , JD 2010 track loader, Ford 1900 4x4
I you couldn't budge it with another crawler, then I would think it is not going to budge at all unless you put some heat to it and then try to collapse it with the crawler again. You would need to be careful to not set the grease on fire when heating.
If that doesn't work, it seems like you might as well cut it because it is not likely to be free again. If I were to cut it I would do so at the bolted ends so you don't cut through the cylinder itself, and be sure not to cut the front idler bracketd that attach to the adjuster as it may be hard to find replacements.
If that doesn't work, it seems like you might as well cut it because it is not likely to be free again. If I were to cut it I would do so at the bolted ends so you don't cut through the cylinder itself, and be sure not to cut the front idler bracketd that attach to the adjuster as it may be hard to find replacements.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
can you get any slack in the chain when pushing with other dozer? if you can and your master pin is somewhat easy to get out i would pull it and then work on the adjuster.....if not and you have to cut some part of the adjuster i would cut the tube behind the piston portion and after its out then try to pump the cylinder off of the piston with a grease gun and then if the piston is still usable then re-tube the end you cut off i re-tubed one one mine it was almost wore through where it rides in the spring bracket ...the only thing i dont know is that yours being the later model the rear end of the tube is bigger and i dont know if it will go through the bracket without taking it off
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:53 pm
- Location: Columbus Ohio
Good point- I had assumed that they would have fitting open but you know what they say about assuming. The bolt has worked better for me but having both open can only help.Howard Yoder wrote:did you take out the grease fitting. It lets it collaspe better then the bolt
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 430 crawler
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:14 pm
- Location: Western MA
Both fittings are out...it won't budge.Tigerhaze wrote:Good point- I had assumed that they would have fitting open but you know what they say about assuming. The bolt has worked better for me but having both open can only help.Howard Yoder wrote:did you take out the grease fitting. It lets it collaspe better then the bolt
IH 500 6-day dozer , JD 2010 track loader, Ford 1900 4x4
I think it comes down to your preference. If you would like the original look of the adjuster (restoration machine, etc.) or if you want it to match the other side then you can cut the ram and see about a repair of your original adjuster with a new ram and seals- IF you can get it apart after cutting.
If you just want to get it back in operation quickly then I would cut the ram to get it out and purchase an aftermarket adjuster. I don't know the price differential on the ram/seals and labor versus a complete aftermarket adjuster but it can't be too different since a new aftermarket adjuster is somewhere around $300 including shipping from Lavoy- although that was a year or two ago.
One nice thing about the aftermarket adjuster- the zerk fitting for adding grease is within a recessed housing with a screw on cover which keeps dirt and rocks away from it.
Even if you go with an aftermarket, it may be good to save the old adjuster housing because someone else may want to buy off of you if doing an original restoration.
If you just want to get it back in operation quickly then I would cut the ram to get it out and purchase an aftermarket adjuster. I don't know the price differential on the ram/seals and labor versus a complete aftermarket adjuster but it can't be too different since a new aftermarket adjuster is somewhere around $300 including shipping from Lavoy- although that was a year or two ago.
One nice thing about the aftermarket adjuster- the zerk fitting for adding grease is within a recessed housing with a screw on cover which keeps dirt and rocks away from it.
Even if you go with an aftermarket, it may be good to save the old adjuster housing because someone else may want to buy off of you if doing an original restoration.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 430 crawler
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:14 pm
- Location: Western MA
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