I assume that when you said brackets, you mean the rock guards that go below the track frames. It has been discussed that those are important for stiffening the track frames as well as keeping rocks out of the rollers.
However you shouldn't assume that new rollers will keep your tracks from derailing- new rollers have more "meat" on the rolling surface relative to the tops of the flanges so might actually make it easier to "jump" the rollers if the other undercarriage components are not replaced. Undercarriage generally wears as a set, and if one portion is worn the rest is as well (assuming portions not previously replaced).
There are a number of threads on this in the archives of this board that discuss derailing, so i would suggest finding them. It is often a combination of a number of factors including worn sprocket teeth, "snake" in the track links due to worn pins/ bushings, worn guides on front and top idlers combined with alignment issues with the front idler, and improper (usually too slack) tension.
The first step is to have someone drive the crawler in a straight line while you stand behind it and watch each side for misalignment issues or other causes of derailment. Some of them such as alignment of front idlers may be easily fixable with some spacers.
One other thing- if derailment is happening when driving parallel to side slopes or sharp turns, that is very common with worn undercarriage and best to just avoid those situations. You can see from a number of photos posted why that is important
if you do have a 64 2010 with the late model sprockets, then you have it a little easier because you can get new 350 tracks. Us early 2010 owners have to live with the early rails as new is not available.
Hope this helps you some.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment