350c Won't Stay Running - Please Help.

[Rigatoni]

I just bought a 350c diesel. It ran great when I went to look at it and it ran fine when I got it home for about a half hour. After that the throttle wouldn't respond when I tried raising it and then it stalled. Now it starts, runs for a few seconds, and then shuts off. I drained the fuel tank, blew out the supply line from the tank to the lift pump, and replaced the fuel filter on the side of the engine (I filled the filter before installing it). I then disconnected the feed line on the lift pump and let the fuel flow from the tank before reconnecting it. I then tried to bleed the system per the instructions in the manual (pumping the little lever on the lift pump) but after about 20 minutes of pumping it I still didn't see anything coming out of the bleed screw at the top of the filter. I've never had to bleed a diesel system before so I don't know for sure how the lever is supposed to feel but it doesn't seem to have very much resistance. So after trying to bleed it for a while without much luck I cracked open the bleed screw at the top of the filter and turned over the motor until fuel came out and then closed the bleed screw. After repeated starting and stalling a few seconds later I made sure that the fuel filter was still staying full. Also the fuel lift pump was just replaced by the guy I bought it off of. Could it be bad again though? Also I feel I should mention that it seems like if I let it set a few minutes then it will stay running a little bit longer than if I just keep trying to start it. When it is running it seems to be running fine but then stalls. So there it is, I think I covered everything that I know and what I've tried so far. Can anyone think of something simple I'm maybe missing or is this issue something more serious? I'd really like to be able to start using the machine I bought so if anyone has any good tips I'd really appreciate them. I'm a mechanic, just not experienced with diesel engines or heavy equipment.

[jtrichard]

sounds like the pump ... search "mouse turds" it will tell you what you most likely have

[DrLoch]

sounds like the pump ... search "mouse turds" it will tell you what you most likely have

I agree. The same thing happened to me. Bought the machine, got it home and after about 5 hours mine exhibited the same exact behavior. Did the research bought the parts and repaired the pump. I believe when it was all said and done it I had an investment of about $140.00. I bought more parts than were required to do the repair..... which is what I always tend to do. End result it's been running well. If you have any mechanical abilities you can repair the pump yourself and save a bunch of cash. When I was looking "Rebuilt" pumps were in the range of $850 to $1,200. and I know they aren't doing what I would consider a rebuild, they are just repairing the governor wight retaining ring, which is a plastic. The hardest item I had was the replacement of the pilot tube which I'm sure will need replacing on your as well. If you do search of "mouse turds" you should be able to get all the information you need, if not report back and I can post up what parts you will probably need. http://www.usdiesel.com/ in Fort Worth is where I got everything.

[Rigatoni]

Thanks for the replies. The pump is indeed my issue. With the ball valve at the top of the pump removed it runs fine. The valve had a bunch of black crap in it. I'm currently trying to put together a list of parts to order so I can attempt to rebuild / repair the pump.

[jtrichard]

yes pulling the check will make it run ... it is the flex ring for sure .. any good rebuild gets rid of the plastic flex and goes to a newer style its steel what pushes the price up so much is if the head is bad and has to be replaced

[Rigatoni]

it was my understanding that if it ran good with the return valve removed then the head was most likely ok? i thought another post on here said that but maybe i read it wrong.

[DrLoch]

it was my understanding that if it ran good with the return valve removed then the head was most likely ok? i thought another post on here said that but maybe i read it wrong.

By what you are posting I would say your head is good. The items you are going to need are;
Seal Kit 24371, $14.62
Pilot tube 16320 $8.89
I got extra shaft seals in case I messed one up, that number is 10453 $1.89
Housing Pressure regulator valve, the check valve, 15830 $ 6.83
The dampner ring update "EIC" 29111 $51.83
I also got the little tool that compresses the shaft seal as you slide the pump back onto the shaft. 13369 $27.88

And you are going to need the Bristol Wrench to get the cam bushing out, got that from www.mgs4u.com, the long one S-291-6L is $9.95 the short S291-6 is $7.49. Or you can grind down a torx as other have done.