a new type of 2010 diesel post
a new type of 2010 diesel post
First, i would like to say i really enjoy this site, while i may not bring much to the table, it has helped me out a lot, and for that, thanks.
The background is i have a little 2010 crawler, diesel, overall in pretty good shape and as the story goes, the guy was cranking it over one morning and it locked up. since it has a 6 way blade, was cheap enough, and very close to home, i took the chance, what did i have to lose?
I am going to rebuild the motor but i dont have a lot of experience with 2010's in general, so my question is, what, if anything can be done to open up this motor up, make it breath better, or crank better in colder weather, those sort of things.
I have read what some guys have done to the 2-53 detroits in the 435s and it got me to thinking is there anything that can be done here? Better injectors, head work, different compression ratio pistons, that sort of thing.
I am not trying to make this a 100+ hp motor, but the price was right, the undercarriage is in a really good shape, so i think i can open up the wallet a bit here.
I wanted to post a couple pictures of it, but cant seem to figure that out just yet
There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here and i hope you guys throw out some ideas, because this little crawler actually has the next slot in the shop and i am really looking forward to getting the motor out and playing with it.
The background is i have a little 2010 crawler, diesel, overall in pretty good shape and as the story goes, the guy was cranking it over one morning and it locked up. since it has a 6 way blade, was cheap enough, and very close to home, i took the chance, what did i have to lose?
I am going to rebuild the motor but i dont have a lot of experience with 2010's in general, so my question is, what, if anything can be done to open up this motor up, make it breath better, or crank better in colder weather, those sort of things.
I have read what some guys have done to the 2-53 detroits in the 435s and it got me to thinking is there anything that can be done here? Better injectors, head work, different compression ratio pistons, that sort of thing.
I am not trying to make this a 100+ hp motor, but the price was right, the undercarriage is in a really good shape, so i think i can open up the wallet a bit here.
I wanted to post a couple pictures of it, but cant seem to figure that out just yet
There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here and i hope you guys throw out some ideas, because this little crawler actually has the next slot in the shop and i am really looking forward to getting the motor out and playing with it.
first thing here is how to post pics http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ucket+post as for pumping up a 2010 not much that i know of to do too them and i would not they have plenty of power stock i have 3 and never have wanted for more power (bigger machine maybe but not more power for its size) as for 2-53 that's a whole different critter there, a lot of things you can do with them
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
The primary problem with starting a 1010 or 2010 in the cold is not using the glow plugs, or they are bad, other than that, they start fine, they just don't start like a direct injected engine.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
I don't remember seeing aftermarket accessories or suggested mods to the HA165D engines used in 2010s to make it run better. For a naturally aspirated diesel engine they seem to have quite a bit of power for a small crawler, even a loader. Of course I am not an engine machinist so do not know for sure on engine mods. I personally would focus energy on some engine parts that tend to be used/worn on these models- in particular the bottom of the deck sleeve can get ruined from cavitation and the precombustion chambers (the potion of the cylinder head that the injectors bolt into) can be damaged from use of ether, as well as the pistons and rings which you would likely replace anyhow. If ether was used I would definitely check out the head carefully. You may already know, but don't ever use ether on these engines.
Many of the upgrades to make it start and run better revolve around the engine accessories. I agree with all that Lavoy and Richard mentioned- a fresh starter, new heavy duty batteries, and good battery cables will make a big difference in cranking speed and can help overcome hard starting as well as to run accessories such as lights. Another thing is generator versus alternator- if not converted it can be done; however some people like the generators and if you are keeping stock you wouldn't want to convert.
Glow plugs are important in all weather conditions- you will want to buy the Wellmans and not the May Co. plugs- ask the part guy (hopefully Lavoy) if in doubt. The primer pump can help in cold weather as well, and that may require som minor modificaiton to the dash and intake side of the engine.There is a HLR disconnect lever (assuming it has the HLR transmission) that also helps initial starting. The injection pump and injectors should also be looked at carefully since they affect the overall running of the engine. This of course is aside from new filters, cleaning existing oil bath and dry filer housings, etc.
Many of the upgrades to make it start and run better revolve around the engine accessories. I agree with all that Lavoy and Richard mentioned- a fresh starter, new heavy duty batteries, and good battery cables will make a big difference in cranking speed and can help overcome hard starting as well as to run accessories such as lights. Another thing is generator versus alternator- if not converted it can be done; however some people like the generators and if you are keeping stock you wouldn't want to convert.
Glow plugs are important in all weather conditions- you will want to buy the Wellmans and not the May Co. plugs- ask the part guy (hopefully Lavoy) if in doubt. The primer pump can help in cold weather as well, and that may require som minor modificaiton to the dash and intake side of the engine.There is a HLR disconnect lever (assuming it has the HLR transmission) that also helps initial starting. The injection pump and injectors should also be looked at carefully since they affect the overall running of the engine. This of course is aside from new filters, cleaning existing oil bath and dry filer housings, etc.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I stock the good glow plugs.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
thanks to everybody for their replies. I havent been around these little 2010s at all and thought it may be kinda cool to see what was out there. I am trying to finish up a 70 diesel standard at the moment, then the little crawler gets moved in next, i am going to pull the motor and a complete rebuild on it, get the starter rebuilt, have the head worked over, and get new injectors. i am hoping to have this one up and running by February ish.
Lavoy, i will probably hit you up for a set of your glow plugs
Was the primer pump an option or standard equipment? I guess I need to start reading up on the service manual.
Once again, thanks to everybody for their input, it has been very helpful.
Lavoy, i will probably hit you up for a set of your glow plugs
Was the primer pump an option or standard equipment? I guess I need to start reading up on the service manual.
Once again, thanks to everybody for their input, it has been very helpful.
Primer appears to have been an option near as I can tell, don't see a lot of them.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
no glow plug
I would assume that if my 1010 had a glow plug, you would turn the key opposite way like my old case or all the way over like the Kubota, however trying both never made any change in how it has started in these minus degree temps the past couple of weeks. However the problem I find lately is that the safety switch on the clutch pedal must be sticking cause every time I have to play with back and forth until the starter kicks in, and she starts the same as in the summer months, pretty good I think considering there doesn't seem to be glow plugs. And no I don't use starter fluid at all. By the way, the owner of the tire repair shop down the road asked if I was interested in his 2010 not running. He is likely going to scrap it. I don't think many of the parts off it would be useful for my 1010. His 2010 is up north Ontario somewhere at his cottage.
There are a couple swappable parts between the 1010 and 2010; in particular if an early (pre-42,000 S/N) 2010 then it has the same tracks as the 1010 only more links; you would simple remove a few links of the 2010 tracks on each side and have a spare set for your 1010. I believe the bottom rollers are also the same.
Unfortunately the reason most people scrap these crawlers is bad undercarriage so if that is the case you may be right that there are few parts you could use.
Unfortunately the reason most people scrap these crawlers is bad undercarriage so if that is the case you may be right that there are few parts you could use.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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