New to me 450 loader ?'s
New to me 450 loader ?'s
I bought a 450 straight loader which has been repowered with a turbo motor.
It has been sitting a few years, looks to have not been abused.I crawled underneath checked for loose and broken bolts and found none. I started it, ran well, but noticed water pump was seized. Also tried hydraulics and had a hose blow but everything seemed to work in the short time I let it run. Price was right so I can afford to put some money into it without throwing it away in case of something major popping up. I have to change hose and do water pump before bringing it home. About 2 hours away. Its sitting out in a field
Can I pull water pump without removing nose piece?
Where is neutral safety switch located ,4 speed trans or hlr?
What size battery do they use as I pulled one out of my truck to start it.
Been reading the forum for a few months to understand what problems are and fixes. It was very helpful when looking at others prior to buying this one.
Any help or suggestions welcomed.
It has been sitting a few years, looks to have not been abused.I crawled underneath checked for loose and broken bolts and found none. I started it, ran well, but noticed water pump was seized. Also tried hydraulics and had a hose blow but everything seemed to work in the short time I let it run. Price was right so I can afford to put some money into it without throwing it away in case of something major popping up. I have to change hose and do water pump before bringing it home. About 2 hours away. Its sitting out in a field
Can I pull water pump without removing nose piece?
Where is neutral safety switch located ,4 speed trans or hlr?
What size battery do they use as I pulled one out of my truck to start it.
Been reading the forum for a few months to understand what problems are and fixes. It was very helpful when looking at others prior to buying this one.
Any help or suggestions welcomed.
Welcome. I believe you're going to have to pull the nose and radiator to get the fan off. Neutral Safety switch will be located on the left had side of the trans. Mine which is a turbo version calls for BCI group 30H, but, I went to Sams Club and got one that provided the best cranking amps, only using one as well.
450C Track Loader
291457T
291457T
I see that there is reference to some tilting the nose forward. Would this be an option to get to the water pump. I don't have access to anything where it is to lift the nose off. If at home I could, but have to get it there first. Radiator was dry when I looked at it so I filled it up before starting it, I am hoping maybe water in it for a while may loosen bearing (if its rust) to allow it to turn long enough to load and unload. I loosened belt to keep from burning it off but don't want to run it very long that way.
I am trying to limit the number of trips back and forth but will do what I have to do.
I am trying to limit the number of trips back and forth but will do what I have to do.
i cant believe that you would have to pull the nose/rad. off to get the water pump off... i have a 2010 and it may not be easy but you can pull the pump off with out taking any thing off but the fan and belt
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Be that as it may, this is what the "Manual" says.jtrichard wrote:i cant believe that you would have to pull the nose/rad. off to get the water pump off... i have a 2010 and it may not be easy but you can pull the pump off with out taking any thing off but the fan and belt
Removal
Drain Coolant
Remove Radiator
Remove fan belt. Remove cap screws attaching water pump to engine and remove water pump.
I've looked at mine because at some point I'm going to have to do the same thing and I can tell you there isn't a lot of room to get at it.
450C Track Loader
291457T
291457T
After being in the front of mine several times I would not even consider replacing the water pump without removing the nose. All you need is a com-a-long and a heavy piece of metal to reach across the loader arms. I think I can have my nose off in about 20 minutes.
1) Start loader raise arms and lock with loader arm locks (mine are 4" angle about 2' long)
2) I have a piece of 4" angle that will reach across the extended arms.
3) Chain thru the radiator fill cap hole to the com-a-long.
4) remove bolts , don't forget the ones in the belly pan
5) Crank it up and pull it forward while letting it down
6) Profit
Trust me I know it sounds intimidating but it's just like a thrown track you dread it till you've done it a couple of times. Now it's not harder than changing the oil in my truck.
I'd bet 100 bucks you'll spend 4 or 5 times as long trying to reach up inside there and get that water pump off vs pulling the nose.
For the record you can tilt the nose but it's 85% of the work involved with removing IMHO.
1) Start loader raise arms and lock with loader arm locks (mine are 4" angle about 2' long)
2) I have a piece of 4" angle that will reach across the extended arms.
3) Chain thru the radiator fill cap hole to the com-a-long.
4) remove bolts , don't forget the ones in the belly pan
5) Crank it up and pull it forward while letting it down
6) Profit
Trust me I know it sounds intimidating but it's just like a thrown track you dread it till you've done it a couple of times. Now it's not harder than changing the oil in my truck.
I'd bet 100 bucks you'll spend 4 or 5 times as long trying to reach up inside there and get that water pump off vs pulling the nose.
For the record you can tilt the nose but it's 85% of the work involved with removing IMHO.
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T
Serial #208336T
leave it to engineers to learn less as they make things "better"DrLoch wrote:Be that as it may, this is what the "Manual" says.jtrichard wrote:i cant believe that you would have to pull the nose/rad. off to get the water pump off... i have a 2010 and it may not be easy but you can pull the pump off with out taking any thing off but the fan and belt
Removal
Drain Coolant
Remove Radiator
Remove fan belt. Remove cap screws attaching water pump to engine and remove water pump.
I've looked at mine because at some point I'm going to have to do the same thing and I can tell you there isn't a lot of room to get at it.
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2904
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Well, it is better. Now more junk can fall on it without wrecking things like will happen on my 420. Now, I have never dropped junk on my 420s nose, but then it is a personal machine.
Employees don't give a hoot, hence a 5 ton nose guard design!
Just wait for Digitup to chime in with some stories!
Stan
Well, it is better. Now more junk can fall on it without wrecking things like will happen on my 420. Now, I have never dropped junk on my 420s nose, but then it is a personal machine.
Employees don't give a hoot, hence a 5 ton nose guard design!
Just wait for Digitup to chime in with some stories!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
water pump
I have a350 dozer and have the pulled water pump off without removing nose piece replaced seal and put back together this a dozer not a loader.Its tight a job .My manual also says tilt nose forward and remove radiator just did it this spring when I changed my fan back to the blower one.
JIM
JIM
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Hi: I'll second 77 Ford's comments. In the past, I removed the nose on 350 and 450 dozers in the field on several occasions. I used a tree stem ( ~3" saplings) tripod lashed together to hold a chain hoist and ran the hook through the radiator cap opening back to the chain. Take up the slack, loosen the bolts and hoist away. It only need to be moved out of the way a bit to get to the other parts. The tripod can be "walked" a bit if needed. Loader arms and 77 Ford's experience sounds good too. With a clear shot, there are fewer skinned knuckles. broken off bolts, swearing episodes and generally a better, more thorough, well done, end result. When it's time to remount the nose, the tripod allowed for some wiggling to get things lined up while supporting the weight safely.
Good luck - happily you shouldn't have to do this too often. BTW, if I remember correctly, this is a good time to check out the hydraulic pump disconnect (if it has one) and free it up while you're in there. Paul
Good luck - happily you shouldn't have to do this too often. BTW, if I remember correctly, this is a good time to check out the hydraulic pump disconnect (if it has one) and free it up while you're in there. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 65 guests