450C hydraulics

[TexasJD]

Was working the dozer when the hydraulics quit working. Checked the fluid level was about two gallons low. Put in more fluid, nothing. I have changed every filter on the dozer except the hydraulics so I pulled the cover off and found this little jewel. I suspect this is the culprit. My question is if I put in another filter and the hydraulics still do not work where should I look next? Controls, lines, pump?

Thanks in advance

[Pushrod]

Check the filter in the bottom of the tank also. It would be more likely to cause the hydraulic system to stop working. Clean the bottom one and replace that reservour filter.

[DrLoch]

When you say quit working, do you mean nothing worked or things operated slowly? That is the return filter, that wouldn't make the hydraulics stop working. When it gets clogged it will spit open like you see. See if you can cut it open, if so look to see what the debris is.

Since it was 2 gallons low on fluid when the hydraulics were working could you hear the pump whining?

[TexasJD]

When you say quit working, do you mean nothing worked or things operated slowly? That is the return filter, that wouldn't make the hydraulics stop working. When it gets clogged it will spit open like you see. See if you can cut it open, if so look to see what the debris is.

Since it was 2 gallons low on fluid when the hydraulics were working could you hear the pump whining?

It started to slow down then quit completely in a matter of minutes. Yes I could hear the pump whining a bit.

[DrLoch]

You may have fried the pump. I know mine is a gear pump and generally speaking they aren't rebuildable. You can try taking off the nose and loosening the inlet line to the pump to make sure it is getting oil.

[TexasJD]

You may have fried the pump. I know mine is a gear pump and generally speaking they aren't rebuildable. You can try taking off the nose and loosening the inlet line to the pump to make sure it is getting oil.

Bit the bullet and purchased another pump. I could hear a pretty good rattle from the pump that I did not hear before so it gets R and R this weekend. Any experience on removal? Looks like I can pull the hoses and bolts, slide forward and out. I am a pretty good mechanic and have the tech manual.

[DrLoch]

I just looked at the manual, doesn't appear to be to informative does it. Generally the pumps have a spline so it should just slide off once you get the lines loose. Now if the shafts are rusted together that may be a different story. May need some heat then. Good luck let us know how it goes.

[TexasJD]

Not quite what I was expecting. The old pump was working just fine but I changed it anyway as the rear seal had a small leak. All in all it was a pretty easy fix.

[DrLoch]

From looking at the picture you ended up changing the drive and the shaft. That would certainly make a sound like the pump is bad. Did you get the parts from the JD dealer?

[TexasJD]

From looking at the picture you ended up changing the drive and the shaft. That would certainly make a sound like the pump is bad. Did you get the parts from the JD dealer?

The splined shaft was actually in pretty good shape surprisingly enough so I did not have to replace it. Bought all the parts online for about half what the JD dealer wanted. Getting that drive bolted to the front pulley was a little tricky since I did not take the nose off but other than that is was pretty easy.

[DrLoch]

If you replaced that drive without taking off the nose you are my hero. You either have small hands or the patience of a saint. For me getting the nose off is a 2 person job. WHen I saw your picture I did a quick search on the drive and shaft. Saw what JD wanted and what the others were selling that part for.... huge difference. Gald to see you got it resolved.

[Paul Buhler]

For me getting the nose off is a 2 person job.

In the past when I had to remove a nose on a crawler or skidder, I built a tripod out of lashed together wooden poles ( ~3"dia. trees) about 12 -14 feet long and hung a small (1/2ton) chain hoist from it to do the lifting. I positioned the tripod with the single leg centered forward beyond the blade, and the two other legs between the tracks; the hoist is centered over the load. I'd add tension until the load was supported and unbolt the nose. Here's where the tripod was handy, I put a short plank across the blade frames and by moving the forward leg, could move the nose piece out of the way and rest it on the plank giving access to the pump, hoses, coupling, radiator, water pump, etc. with out straining too much. This worked as an inexpensive job site solution for me. Of course having a second set of hands is always nice, and not having to lift a heavy nose is always a plus. Paul

[TexasJD]

If you replaced that drive without taking off the nose you are my hero. You either have small hands or the patience of a saint. For me getting the nose off is a 2 person job. WHen I saw your picture I did a quick search on the drive and shaft. Saw what JD wanted and what the others were selling that part for.... huge difference. Gald to see you got it resolved.

There was just enough room for me to touch the pulley through the shaft tunnel so I could tell where the bolt holes were. I used a wooden dowel that was just a fit and inserted in the pulley bolt hole. I clocked the drive and slid it over the wooden dowel. The hard part was getting the bolts inserted in the holes as I could only use two fingers and had to be careful and not knock the drive shaft off as it was just barley wedged in place. I used a long extension and with a little pressure I got the first bolt started. After that the other three started real easy and I worked my way around all four bolts a few turns at a time until the shaft was snug against pulley.