1970 350 john deere dozer loader 4 in one bucket

[howelong]

Last time i was on here i just purchased this JD 350 and asked a few questions. Today and since then i have got the machine running, got the machine to drive forward and backward through all the gears got all the hydraulics working perfect. However I can't get the machine to steer. Now simply if you place the forward and reverse lever into forward nothing happens in all gears if you place the lever in reverse you can get all forward gears and reverse. I pulled the inspection plates and adjusted the steering clutches so that the brake doesn't stop the machine and tried to either break the clutches free or get it to slip nothing happens the machine still cannot steer. Is there anything I can do without ripping apart the entire machine and change the clutches????? I am not sure if they are wet or dry clutches and would assume dry but not sure can anyone help. This machine runs and start so well its a shame to give up now.

[Paul45]

How can you adjust brake bands not knowing what you have? Do you have the manuals? you Must adjust exactly as the manual describes or your just wasting time!!!

[howelong]

Paul I backed off on the brake on each clutch then adjusted the clutch so it would slip in essence made the linkage so it had no play assuming to free the clutch and cause it to slip when I pulled back on the sticks as to engage the clutches the machine would continue to go and its my assumption the clutches must be rusted together with the pressure plate etc... also how do i know if it s a wet or dry clutch????

[jtrichard]

if it is a straight 350 or a 350B (early some debate that very late 350Bs had wet)it will be dry clutch 350Cs have wet clutch.... Do you know what your ser. number is?... If it truly is a 1970 it could be straight or early "B" which will have dry

[NWJD fan]

Not sure if I am mis reading something but it sounds like you have a direction reverser problem either linkage, valve adjustment or internal clutching if you cannot get any motion when forward is selected. So far as steering goes, does it look like anything is happening when you look through the adjustment port and make steering inputs with the machine running? Clutch adjustment by the book is a good place to start.

[jtrichard]

AS for steering problem Most likely his clutch packs are rusted into one solid piece

[howelong]

I removed the covers from the clutch linkage there are two adjustments in there one is the brake and one is the clutch. Where is the port that i can look into while the motor is running to adjust the clutch linkage?????? can i adjust the pressure plate without dismantling the entire machine???? With regard to the forward and reverser nothing happens when i push it to forward. I will check the linkage and if it is ok could it be the valve and if so how do we check or bypass the valve to get it to go into forward. I was reading that if there is a problem with the forward valve the machine wont steer In essence the clutches wont disengage and slip like there suppose to do to make the machine redirect power to the other side and vise versa. I was messing with it for a few hours with and without adjusting the brake so the brake would stop and the clutch should slip running the machine full throttle pulling back on each stick locking up the brake the engine wants to stall but the clutch is not releasing when in fact I have the clutch pressure plate pressed in. There is no oil in the clutch area thereby assuming its a dry clutch.... wondering if it is a wet clutch and there is no oil in there that could be the possibility why it is not clutching/slipping like it is suppose to do.... the engine clutch works fine no problems with that step on the left foot petal and the machine stops its the steering clutches which are probably rusted together . How do i break them free is there and trick or proven way to break the clutches free without dismantling the entire machine????

[Lavoy]

First off, you need to determine exactly what you have and get the appropriate manuals prior to any repair, or further discussion. It is pointless to continue to stumble about blindly and risk the chance of breaking an expensive or hard to find part. You are making way to many assumptions as to what you may or may not have, and usually that ends up costing you money.
If you have a reverser, you do not have an engine clutch.
If your steering clutches are truly stuck, there is really no way to free them up, you remove the finals and disassemble the clutches and rebuild, no free rides on crawlers.
Other than the two basic adjustments, there is NOTHING as regards the pressure plate that can be adjusted with the final installed.
If you remove the reverser valve, you will have a very large yellow boat anchor, nothing else.
If you shift the reverser lever and the machine moves one way and not the other, it is virtually impossible for it to have anything to do with steering clutches.
Lavoy

[howelong]

Lavoy: Agreed however I am an expert mechanic... with the internet there is free rides because others have been through the same thing and they can share their learning experiences so that other poor slobs like myself dont have to go through what they have. I am grasping at the last straws of hope that i don't have to pull the final drives and rip the machine apart kind of dont have time its kamakazi and break it loose or off it goes to the scrap heap running and all.... and quite frankly the machine has a lever on the dash that says forward and on the bottom reverse there is a foot pedal on the left when you step on it the machine when in gear stops like a neutral so that has to be the engine clutch. and in conclusion if what your saying is true and I believe your right again there is no other hope other than pulling the machine apart and doing the "no free ride" and installing clutches I was just hoping someone had an inside secret to make this machine a win because doing a full rip down makes it a loser..........too much time and money.............. thank you all DJ

[Tigerhaze]

Howelong, hopefully you realize that we are not trying to be hard on you or temper your enthusiasm to "get 'er done". We are simply pointing out that continuing to troubleshoot and repair without a full understanding how your crawler works can lead to expensive and time consuming repairs. There has been many a time that someone on here has told us they dumped oil in the steering clutch housings to try and free up stuck clutches only for us to tell them that now they will HAVE to remove the finals and replace them all, to their dismay.

Hopefully you are in the process of ordering an operator's or service manual for your machine but will tell you a few quick basics. 350 crawlers spanned over a large number of years and had a number of significant modifications, including transitions to "wet" steering clutches so the serial number is extremely important. You really need to look at the serial number data plate near the seat base and tell us what those number are (NOT the serial number plate on the right side of the dash which is the loader attachment's serial number). it usually will say something like "350BB T3EM.....". The full set of letters and numbers will give us a pretty good idea of what you have and allow you to order the correct manuals.

As stated before the 350s went from having "dry" (mechanical) steering clutches to "wet" (hydraulic) steering clutches basically after the 350B series. The steering clutches, no matter what series 350 you have, are independent of each other on each side of the crawler and are operated by the two steering levers. The "dry" clutches operate very similarly to an auto clutch in that there is a pressure plate and throwout bearing. There is also a brake band on each side that is also operated by each steering lever- that is why you have to follow the book adjustments for that system or you could have the brake band engage before the steering clutch disengages. There is NOT a differential- the shafts for each driveshaft through the steering clutch housing turn independently and equally on each side when in gear and moving. The "wet" clutches are hydraulically activated but are still operated independently by the steering levers. The brake (right pedal) does activate both brake bands equally through linkage. To further complicate things, the "dry" clutch systems did have an option of power steering assist so simply seeing hydraulic lines under the seat does NOT mean you necessarily have "wet" steering clutches.

As for the movement of your crawler the power is transmitted from the engine by a flywheel to the reverser, and there is a "torsional isolator" between them. The configuration of that can vary depending on serial number and mods. The "engine clutch" is simply linkage from the pedal to a hydraulic valve in the reverser. As Lavoy stated, there is no direct relationship between the reverser and the steering clutches.

Occasionally you can free up stuck steering clutches, but is the exception rather than the norm. The trick is to push the crawler into an immovable object like a large tree, boulder, large dirt pile, etc. and then pull the levers and let go rapidly- this will sometimes free them. However this will not work if the steering clutches are already maladjusted or if the brake band is stuck. This is also a good time to see if the tracks are churning equally- if one of them stops moving then you know you have steering clutch slippage on that side. DO NOT add any liquids to the steering clutch housing as you will simply ruin the steering clutch fiber discs.

As for the reverser, the first thing is to check fluid level and second is to check the reverser pressures. I don't have a 350 but the procedures for testing pressures would be in the manual.

Hopefully the advice from everyone will help you- again the first place to start is to get the serial number and check the FAQs section to see what you have or ask us and we can go from there. The second is to order the correct operator/service manual once you know what you have (i.e. the manuals differ between the different 350 series)- which is another reason to get the serial number. The parts manual is free online and can be found at this location (again you need to know what 350 you have):

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt

When Lavoy says there are "no free rides", what he means is "there is no such thing as a cheap crawler". If you expect a minor fix and have it working perfectly or it goes to the scrap heap, then it will probably be the latter and that would be a shame. Hopefully you at least test the market to see if someone will buy it as a parts machine which will get you a little more money and help out someone who can't find parts, rather than being turned into junk Chinese steel.

We want to help you help yourself- there is plenty to learn on the site and we are willing to share if you are willing to listen and follow advice.Good luck in any case.

[howelong]

I didn't get your name incredible explanation thank you a million i promise I will not scrap this machine i was just venting. I bought it for 1000 burried in a jungle transported it to long island 500 dollars then started to put money into it, hydraulic lines, changed all oils can't find final drive fills must be behind counter weight plates found the drains new starter, new seat, new air cleaner housing, etc.etc.etc.. I was hoping to get it working by hunting season i have 185 acres backing state land in Lake George NY and need some trails cut for quads im getting too old to carry bucks out.... Its frustrating because each time i mess with it I get something new working. i will order a manual but i assure you i adjusted the clutch brake and the clutch linkage properly by doing the mechanic thing for years I am not to big to ask for help Im a team player and I like this site so i thank all of you. Driving it up to a tree is a great idea didn't try that one yet I just hope Its not something very small i am missing like flipping a hidden switch or something that makes it steer or maybe this tree is going to be coming down... it runs and operates so good that I can't believe it doesn't steer. and I absolutely didn't and wont pour oil down the clutch compartments tempted but know better. once it slips it will never grab crossing my fingers will be in touch thank you again. Dale

[Lavoy]

In reference to the internet providing the free ride, that is why you are here I assume, which is fine, and the free ride is the advice you have been given which you evidently choose to ignore. As for myself, I am not an expert mechanic, but I have had over 200 old crawlers, I have been at this for over 25 years, I created this site, and there are over 50,000 free rides that have gone out to people like you on this site, so I am fully aware of the free ride you mention, that is one of the reasons this site exists. SO, I will try it again with the free advice gleaned from 25 years of experience!
As a general rule, there is no CHEAP way to break loose stuck clutches, PERIOD. You can not adjust the pressure plate with the final drive installed, PERIOD. The crawler not moving forward when the reverser lever is moved has nothing to do with the steering clutches PERIOD assuming it moves in the other direction.
You may be an expert mechanic on whatever you work on, but you are obviously not an expert mechanic on crawlers, or you would not responded with your comment on the engine clutch, WHICH YOU DO NOT HAVE, just as I and others posted. I don't care if you have a clutch pedal and the crawler stops when you step on it, YOU DON'T HAVE A CLUTCH. If you had the manuals I suggested, you would know that you don't have an engine clutch if you have a reverser! If you had the manuals, you would know that whatever it was you were trying to adjust or do to your clutches was a waste of time. If you had the manuals, you would know that your crawler does not have wet clutches.
Your problem here is not that you are in search of free advice, again that is exactly why this site is here, it is that you don't listen to the advice you have been given. You don't like the advice you have been given, so you choose to ignore it and continue to ask the question hoping for a different answer, and then get frustrated when no one can magically fix your crawler for free. You take a piece of advice and discount it because you are an expert mechanic and you know what a clutch pedal does, are you starting to understand my frustration?
If doing things correctly costs too much, I have been there, done that, many, many times, and have given up and parted them out.
My final comment on anyone that would "kamikaze" a crawler in an effort to fix a problem is that you really should not own a crawler in the first place. That is the best way to cost yourself thousands of dollars on a problem that could have been solved for a few hundred.
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I hate to have to say it, but if you are an expert mechanic on just about anything car, truck, or other kind of machine.....and you have never worked on a crawler....you are starting over from Square One.

The diesel engine is about all you get to carry over. The rest is going to be....different.

Like No engine clutch. No differential, not in the rear end, anyway. Some have them in the reverser. Fiber and steel disc pack steering clutches. Band brakes. Sprockets, not wheels. Chains with pins and bushings with six different ways to wear (not like a fat motorcycle chain). Rollers and idlers for the chain to ride on. Different pads to grab the ground, depending on what is attached to the crawler and what kind of ground it needs to run over.

Crawlers are their Own Thing. You first need to go through the service manual For Your Serial Number machine. Reading the wrong one will make sure you have a yard ornament. None of us wish to see that happen. This is why we are more or less yelling at you to STOP applying some other mechanical knowledge before you bust what you have and make it even more expensive.

1500 bux. You have barely begun. My own thought as to what one needs to spend to have a JD350 good to bust trails is 30,000 bux. Either spent buying a truly good machine, or some combination of expensive parts and a whole lot of your time (valued at normal shop rates).

Finally, I, too, have to say: You Do Not Have A Master Engine Clutch. What you have is a pedal that opens a hydraulic bypass valve and only makes believe it is a clutch.....so this ought to make you stop using your knowledge and ensure you get the correct manuals and....go back to school.

Stan

[howelong]

Stan: I welcome constructive criticism it makes me smarter I said i was an expert but not at everything I am a fast learner and will surprise some of you here ,, once i figure this out (i.e. reading the manual and hands on) I will come up with possibly some new technics. In the mean time i will get the serial number and post it on here I have always asked other mechanics and brained stormed as a team two heads are better than one and three and so on that is why if I am to win.,,, having all of your knowledge will absolutely be better than not. Serial number today thanks

[Lavoy]

Keep I mind, even if you sell the crawler instead of keeping it, they sell for much more money if you can advertise that they have had clutch work as opposed to scrapping it. Complete clutch kit is a little over $600/side, and with a manual and mechanical skills, you can do a side a day if all goes well, maybe faster.
Lavoy