Loose tracks
- jd420c-2014
- MC crawler
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:00 pm
- Location: The Dalles,Or
Loose tracks
I'm new here,anyone have any tricks to tighten the tracks?
Re: Loose tracks
What's the problem?? Adjusters stuck or none left?jd420c-2014 wrote:I'm new here,anyone have any tricks to tighten the tracks?
Just make sure you're tracking center on the front idler when you adjust.
- jd420c-2014
- MC crawler
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:00 pm
- Location: The Dalles,Or
-
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 305
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:01 pm
- Location: Gloucester,Virginia
420c
If you are having trouble figuring out how to tighten the tracks and how much you might want to get the shop manual for your machine.That manual and the parts manual will give you most of the info you need to adjust,maintain and repair the crawler.These manuals are afordable and
worth every cent spent on them.Luck,JimAnderson
worth every cent spent on them.Luck,JimAnderson
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2904
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
There is a procedure where you set a long stick along the top of the track and measure the gap between the bottom of the stick and the top of a pad. There is a difference between 4- and 5- roller due to the top idler being there (5-roller) or not.
So, the setting is not by how far forward the front idler adjustments are. You do need to ensure that any movement of those are equal inside vs outside though or the machine won't drive in a straight line and will wear the flanges on the front idler much faster.
The service manuals are very helpful as they not only give step by step instructions, they have very high quality photographs of the steps as well.
You will also need the manual to set the steering clutches and brakes. If not right today, you will one day, and that is nowhere as simple as track chain tensioning.
One thing about manuals. The 420 manual does not cover everything on the 420. Some things were carried over from the 40. What changed between the 40 and the 420 is in the 420 manual. What did not is in the 40 manual. The same holds true between the 40 and the M.
If you know your way around the wheel tractors from all three series, you probably only need the 420 manual for the 420c specifics. I *think* Deere put all of the crawler specific stuff for the 420c into the 420 manual as a lot of crawler bits changed between the 40c and 420c.
Another thing about the manuals is they cover all submodels, not just the crawlers.
Stan
There is a procedure where you set a long stick along the top of the track and measure the gap between the bottom of the stick and the top of a pad. There is a difference between 4- and 5- roller due to the top idler being there (5-roller) or not.
So, the setting is not by how far forward the front idler adjustments are. You do need to ensure that any movement of those are equal inside vs outside though or the machine won't drive in a straight line and will wear the flanges on the front idler much faster.
The service manuals are very helpful as they not only give step by step instructions, they have very high quality photographs of the steps as well.
You will also need the manual to set the steering clutches and brakes. If not right today, you will one day, and that is nowhere as simple as track chain tensioning.
One thing about manuals. The 420 manual does not cover everything on the 420. Some things were carried over from the 40. What changed between the 40 and the 420 is in the 420 manual. What did not is in the 40 manual. The same holds true between the 40 and the M.
If you know your way around the wheel tractors from all three series, you probably only need the 420 manual for the 420c specifics. I *think* Deere put all of the crawler specific stuff for the 420c into the 420 manual as a lot of crawler bits changed between the 40c and 420c.
Another thing about the manuals is they cover all submodels, not just the crawlers.
Stan
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Hi: One thing that I found helpful was to get the threads good and clean and lubed up with an oil then grease so that the nuts spin by hand on the threaded rod. This took quite a bit of work initially, but if you ever throw a track, it will be that much easier to get back on. JD recommends a 1 1/2" crowfoot wrench to work the nuts, but I bought a garage sale open end wrench and cut it short so a bottle jack could get under it to get things working initially - I'm assuming you have a threaded adjuster, a hydraulic adjuster works differently.
Stan's comments on using a straight edge and measuring the sag between the top idler and sprocket ( on a five roll) is what the manual recommends; I believe it's about 1" - my manual's not with me. I err to too loose rather than too tight, but generally the tracks need some slack to take up shocks and accumulated wear. As Stan said, too tight and you accelerate wear; too loose and they come off at the wrong times.
Good luck. Paul
Stan's comments on using a straight edge and measuring the sag between the top idler and sprocket ( on a five roll) is what the manual recommends; I believe it's about 1" - my manual's not with me. I err to too loose rather than too tight, but generally the tracks need some slack to take up shocks and accumulated wear. As Stan said, too tight and you accelerate wear; too loose and they come off at the wrong times.
Good luck. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 88 guests