About to attempt steering clutch replacement (350B)

[Marcd]

So, the short story: The Monday after Thanksgiving (2014) I brought my 350B ('71, I believe) loader to a recommended shop to have the steering clutches replaced (you guys scared me out of doing it myself after reading all the posts). After weekly calls and a few visits, and a lot of lies from the shop, I showed up mid February 2015 and took my machine back. (yes I do have a lot of patience).

So, having over $1000 worth of parts, a background as an automotive mechanic, and being the proud owner of a 1947 Ford 2N that wighs 1/4 what the 350B does (and little to no knowledge of what I am actually getting myself into - I find this helps get projects started), I am back to square one - doing the job myself. One side does not release and my OCD is forcing me to do both sides. Plus I bought a couple of rollers to replace the two back rollers that have broken flanges just in case the job gets too easy.

I do have the repair manuals, and understand what needs to be done. I do have a couple of questions intended to help me avoid hospital bills: 1. I have a solid rear counter weight. How much does it weigh? I can find documentation on the plate type, but not the solid one that I have.
2. How much do the weights on the sprockets weigh? I intend to make the tool out of 1/2" rod, but am curious.
3. How much do the final drive housings weigh? Should I drain them first or not bother?
And the most important question:
4. What's the best way to get the track master pins out? Will a 4 ton porta power work if I make a frame? Does it need to be more? Where can I get a press (rent or buy) to press the pins out?

Also, other than 'Don't do it!' what advice would you give me? I did buy a gallon jug of Kroil. and do have decent equipment. While I feel well prepared and capable, like i said, I don't know what I don't know.

Thanks for listening.

Marc

[DrLoch]

Here is one, http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=7279.

Hopefully other will jump in with other links from the archives. There are a number of people on this forum that are willing to share the knowledge to get you through it.

[Lavoy]

I would say the opposite of "don't do it", do it. Get factory service and parts manuals, read up on the process a few times, and get started. If you have any questions, post them here, or give me a call.
Lavoy

[cantbeatadeere]

I just pressed the master pin out on my 350c track with a snap-on ball joint press and a touch of heat(don't know if I needed heat just did it) and she walked right out and back in(without heat)....If you have a ball joint press can't hurt to try it. my father made the tool the shop manual recommends to drive them out and it never budged it, even with my 29 year old nephew giving it all he had(which was a LOT) even with heat....stayed solid.

[Marcd]

Thank you to everyone who replied. One more question: I do have the manuals. The section on removing the final drive doesn't say anything about removing the tank unit (fuel tank, hydraulic tank and controls, and battery box) from the loader, while the section on removing the steering cluch says this unit has to be removed. Does it have to be removed?

I have fought and won the battle with the rear counter weight. After taking the bolts out of the weight and then realizing there was no good way to disconnect the drawbar with the weight on, a liberal amount of kroil and an air wrench got the draw bar bolts out of the weight and, with a little wrestling, it slid off the draw bar onto my dolly - no squashed fingers or toes or anything. Not sure why Deere put my loader together with so much rust though - locktite would have been better.

Tomorrow morning I'll make the sprocket weight removal tool shown in the manual and then possibly tackle the right side track (the side that doesn't release) or the tank unit if it really needs to be removed. Thanks again.

[JWB Contracting]

We often drill and tap a 3/8" hole in the sprocket, them bolt on a chain so we can pick them off we are shop crane.

We always remove the fuel tank and the side box of the offending side. Can be done without but I don't think you save much time if any. Makes it much easier to set the brake and clutch adjustments.

A piece of angle iron with an eye on top bolted to the bearing cap on the final drive makes for easy removal with a shop crane. I also weld an 18" piece of 2" pipe sticking out wards for leverage.

Some years we might do clutches on 5-10 Deeres so you learn what works and what doesn't. There aren't really any short cuts.

[original possum]

Taking off the fuel tank, etc. is the hard way. Make two 12"x 1/2" threaded rods to fit where you remove the 1/2" bolts and use them to slide the whole unit out (after removing the sprocket, which you can lift or roll by hand). Then support it, remove the rods, and roll it all out.