40c steering clutch

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Jun 16, 2016 10:21 am

Stan Disbrow wrote:Hi,

Once again, I sit here thinking '420' when the subject is clearly '40'. Sigh.

Stan
High Stan maybe a little to much "420" ? :lol: :lol: :lol: JUST KIDDING
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Stan Disbrow
350 crawler
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu Jun 16, 2016 12:15 pm

Hi,

But, I only had one, honest!

It was pretty funny: A news article some time back, reporting the theft of mile marker 420 signs. And, I am thinking there must some *real* lovers of 420s out there to be stealing signs like that! :P

Actually in this case, 40 v 420 doesn't matter, does it?

Speaking of a 40V, I remember the day Dad dragged one home - and we lived atop a mountain! That was a scary tractor to try and use up there!

For those now wondering what a V is, that is a High Crop - on stilts. Just what you *don't* want on top of a rock bump......We were high enough as it was :P

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (5045D), 2025 3025E

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Thu Jun 16, 2016 12:21 pm

If you just can not get the fingers up to the gauge, you can pull one steel plate out, and there will be enough adjustment in the pressure plate to compensate.
Lavoy and others:
Have you ever added a steel to make up for some wear in a clutch pack and what were the results? A friend is tight on funds and is looking to gain some steering life on the cheap for his infrequently used hobby machine. Thanks Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:19 pm

Never. It is at best a band-ad fix, and may or may not alleviate the problem. If a correctly adjusted pressure plate does not alleviate the problem, there is absolutely no difference in adding a steel disc and attempting to adjust the pressure plate vs just adjusting it without adding the disc. As far as the pressure plate, the face pressure exerted by the pressure plate or any other factor regarding the pressure plate, there is simply no difference.
If he truly can't afford the parts, pull the final and try and adjust the pressure plate properly with the gauge. If it does not work, nothing other than correct parts replacement will correct the problem, and he has wasted his time and will need a new pressure plate at the minimum. If it does work, only out a few hours labor and he might be good to go with no out of pocket cost, might be worth a shot.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:58 pm

Never.....
Thanks. Sometimes what looks like a good fix. isn't, and what's nice about this site is that other's are willing to share what they've learned over the years. I'm guessing that you, or some one you know, tried this "fix" to reach your conclusion. It's nice to not have to always learn the "hard way". Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Jun 16, 2016 3:36 pm

I've been burned a couple times, learned my lesson, never done it since and that was 20 plus years ago. I have talked to tons of people that got to do over at least once, if not more before replacing parts and then it works like it should. Time is too valuable to waste on do-overs, especially on final drives, I hate that the most.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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