General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Lavoy
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- Location: North Dakota
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by Lavoy » Thu Dec 26, 2019 9:38 am
They actually make bearing "heaters". I had always wanted one til I looked at the price, that kind of ended that idea.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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notmeu
- 1010 crawler

- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:23 pm
- Location: Western PA
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by notmeu » Thu Dec 26, 2019 5:46 pm
Anytime ray, glad to help out!
1956 JD420, gearmatic 8a winch, custom 6 way blade and FOPS.
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Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler

- Posts: 993
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
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by Paul Buhler » Thu Dec 26, 2019 5:59 pm
Hi: Glad some of my adventures are of help to others. I found that if I clicked on a picture, I could link to my photobucket account and get a clear picture to view. Merry Christmas, and Happy Wrenching.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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notmeu
- 1010 crawler

- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:23 pm
- Location: Western PA
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by notmeu » Fri Dec 27, 2019 5:31 pm
Hey Paul! After reading thru this old post I remembered about that 2 part metal epoxy we used on the spider. I had to readjust the clutch bolts late last fall and the epoxy was still holding up strong and no cracks!
1956 JD420, gearmatic 8a winch, custom 6 way blade and FOPS.
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Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler

- Posts: 993
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
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by Paul Buhler » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:24 pm
Tom:
I haven't been using my dozer much this year. I now have a Case 95xt skid steer, and it gets things done quicker. My winch has an issue with the controller that I need to dig into deeper when it warms up; brake cylinder doesn't activate properly, so It doesn't release or activate correctly. The clutch, however, is working well. I can pull the dozer backwards when it's activated. I haven't pulled the side cover in a while, but I suspect that the epoxy is holding up as hoped. I prepared/cleaned the splines thoroughly and centered the spider as carefully as possible when I applied the epoxy.
Best regards, and have a happy new year. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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Ray III
- 2010 crawler

- Posts: 609
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:39 pm
- Location: Troy, NY
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by Ray III » Tue Jan 07, 2020 2:27 pm
Speaking of the clutch, the band is missing from my winch (hydraulic ports plugged). What is driving the drum, can rust stick things together? There doesn't seem to be any welding done in there.
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Lavoy
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by Lavoy » Wed Jan 08, 2020 7:28 am
In the past when I have seen this, usually they have tightened up the band adjusting bolts so the winch will always spool in, and they defeat the brake so it will always spool out.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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Ray III
- 2010 crawler

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- Location: Troy, NY
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by Ray III » Thu Jan 09, 2020 2:44 pm
The bolts are there, but not tight. I got the winch mounted up nicely and fresh oil, just need time to monkey with it.
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Ray III
- 2010 crawler

- Posts: 609
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:39 pm
- Location: Troy, NY
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by Ray III » Mon Apr 06, 2020 10:22 am
The anchor blocks for the tension rods have a third bolt hole cast in them, but never used. Were the side frames supposed to be drilled for an extra bolt? I don't have a lot of faith in the 7/16" carriage bolts meant to secure the fenders. Asked my bolt supplier for the strongest carriage bolts but was told they are all the same.
As for the clutch band, the answer is that there is a steel band in place of it welded to the drum. It was done so neatly that I did not recognize it as something that doesn't belong. I will get the brake working and use it as is.
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Lavoy
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by Lavoy » Mon Apr 06, 2020 2:34 pm
Shear strength on a single grade 5 7/16" bolt is probably in the 30,000 pound range, and you have 4 of them in the anchor blocks. No way you are breaking any of them with a 9200 lb winch on a 5000 lb crawler. Only 2 bolts used per block on a 420, that block probably was used in other applications as well.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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Jim B
- 350 crawler

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- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:36 am
- Location: western Maine
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by Jim B » Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:49 pm
Ray III,
Just a bit of info for reference. Your bolt guy is a bit off base. Maybe all he stocks are the same, but they are available in various grades, finishes, and materials. A307/Grade 2 (common grade in hardware and building supply stores), Grade 5, and Grade 8. You can see some choices in the McMaster Carr catalog on line for reference, if you have a high strength need in the future. The bolt suppliers I use have both easily gotten me grade 8 carriage bolts in the past. Good luck with the winch, they are handy.
Jim
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Ray III
- 2010 crawler

- Posts: 609
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:39 pm
- Location: Troy, NY
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by Ray III » Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:30 am
Thanks, I will do some digging for better bolts. Unfortunately the ones I got say 307 on the head, can feel them yielding when tightening.
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Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler

- Posts: 993
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
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by Paul Buhler » Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:23 pm
Ray: I've bought better grade hardware by "Googling" my needs. The interweb can be a wonderful tool; just not when discussing politics.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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Lavoy
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by Lavoy » Wed Apr 08, 2020 7:54 am
Pretty sure I can get grade 5 carriage bolts in town, may even have them on hand if you get in a bind.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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Ray III
- 2010 crawler

- Posts: 609
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:39 pm
- Location: Troy, NY
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by Ray III » Fri Apr 10, 2020 10:23 am
Thanks again guys.
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