The first is the two battery holddown studs that needed to be replaced. What I did was get a couple of 5/16" x 2-1/2" bolts and cut the heads off. I then heated the shank ends of the bolts red hot and flattened them with a hammer on the flat on the back of my vise.

A little closer shot.

This next one is the steering lever I broke in the process of trying to remove the frozen bolt. What I did first was align the broken pieces with a new bolt and a couple of washers in the gap. Then I silver brazed the broken pieces.
This might have been strong enough by itself but I wanted to add some material to the back to help give it more strenth where the keyway forms a stress riser. This picture shows the lever mounted on my mill so I can cut slots for the new material.

Here's the two slots cut. What I used was some 1/4" square key stock and cut the slots so that the keys would sit just high enough out of the piece to let me grind off the excess and restore the original contour.

With the keys sitting in the slots ready to silver braze.

And finally, the finished product ground back to its original shape. Once it's painted you won't be able to tell it was ever broken and it's actually stronger than the original. I know it seems a bit nutty to spend this kind of time on something nobody is likely to see, but I wanted it as good as it could be.

I'm not as lucky with the other side as it was broken years ago and the lever had been welded to the steering shaft. I'm making a weld-on replacement end for that side with the idea that I could make more for folks that have similar issues and want to restore the original look. Lavoy has mentioned in the past that you can weld a setscrew collar onto the end of a broken steering lever and it will work fine. The replacement end is more of a restoration idea than a functional repair.
All for now.