450C track loader hose replacement question

[boaterri]

I have a 450C track loader and blew the lift cylinder hose between the cylinder and the block where it changes to steel. The hose is completely surrounded by the loader pedestal and looks like a right proper bi*&h to get out. Anyone have any suggestions as to the best (easiest) way to access the hose? Hopefully without completely removing the loader arms.........

Rick

[Jim B]

Fun, fun , fun.

Search Loader hose replacement and there are several threads about this. That will give you some info to study until some of the guys who have actually done it come along. I consider myself lucky, I only have had to change a couple bucket hoses over the years, the ones in the open. You may need to bend wrenches and/or get some crowfoot wrenches to make it easier. The loader frame does not have to be cut open -- that has been asked before.
.

[B Town]

Hello Sir,

I replaced all 12 hoses on my 450 C track loader. It was a proper challenge. All hoses were about to perish, so I bit the bullet. I tried all the easy ways, crow feet/ bent wrenches. I could never get close to the fittings nor get enough torque.

I used a ratchet strap, supported the boom cylinder. I removed the rear pin from the boom loader and slide it forward. I sucked it done to a shorter length so I could undo all the fittings in the loader pedestal.

Tough job. Hope this helps.

[77 Ford]

I tilted the bucket forward and rested the bucket on a goose neck trailer so the loader arms were mostly up out of the way. I then pulled the loader lift cylinder and then you just have to muscle thru it. You can disconnect the steel lines in the walk pass thru area, then there is a bolt that connects the steel lines inside the pedestal once removed you can wiggle the lines around some to get them broken loose. The pins to my lift cylinder were sized the bolts too on both sides. It turned it into about an all day project per side.

[DrLoch]

When I did mine, like the others I had the boom of the ground and pulled the rear pins to get the rear hoses. I bought all kinds of wrenches, bent some of said wrenches and really improved my language skills.

[77 Ford]

When I did mine, like the others I had the boom of the ground and pulled the rear pins to get the rear hoses. I bought all kinds of wrenches, bent some of said wrenches and really improved my language skills.

I found I had to make up new words....I smashed a finger so good the finger nail fell off.

[boaterri]

Thank you to all for the suggestions. Currently replacing the track assembly on that side and then will lift the bucket with a chain fall and attack the hoses. Looks like there will be enough room once lift cylinder is strapped and retracted.

I suspect I will use some new and interesting combinations of "special" words.

Will update when done.

Rick

[DrLoch]

Good luck and be safe.

[B Town]

You may find it hard to believe once you are in there, but those steel pipes going from the bottom to the top of the loader mount will come out of there. The pipe is SS and very tough, I felt like they almost “flexed” when they came out. Changing the rubber hose was a piece of cake. Now getting the combination of hose and pipe back is was a true challenge. If you can snap pics of the before for reference when putting it back together. After all the frustration, it can start to look like a bowl of spaghetti in the mount.

[nelstomlinson]

I know this is asking a lot, but if you can take some pictures of the process as you go it will help others.

[boaterri]

Will do/
Rick

[boaterri]

Here is the long overdue report. Sorry, no photos, but the layout of the hoses and piping is very obvious once you look at it.
Once we finished the undercarriage replacement I started on the hoses. Lifted the boom by putting it in "float" and lifting with an excavator that my neighbor just happens to have in his yard. Blocked the boom up from the cross member with 8x8 s and an small A frame hoist on the bucket. Used a ratchet strap on the lift cylinder. Pulled the pin on the base of the lift cylinder and used a "down" command to suck the cylinder together. Loosened the clips holding the steel lines to the cylinder for improved access to the fittings.

The hoses came off surprisingly easily. One by twisting from the other end with a wrench the other with a crows foot. I removed the curl hoses at the same time. Getting the new curl hoses on was a real pain in the a$$ due to clearance. Wound up removing one of the steel lines, which fortunately had a fitting at the base of the boom tower, attaching the hose and threading the whole assembly thru the boom tower. The other hose mounted up just fine. Upper fitting to upper fitting, lower fitting to lower fitting. The hoses are slightly different lengths, shorter one on the bottom. The lift cylinder hoses went on very easily. Left to left, right to right.

Ease the lift cylinder back into position with a "raise" command, tap the pin in, replace the locking nut and after clearing the rigging run the bucket and boom up and down, curl and dump a bunch of times to burp the air out.

The whole project realistically is 2 days work, not counting the trip to the hose store. (OUCH, be seated when they hand you the bill) I only did the four hoses on one side, have a set of spares for the other side for when one of them decides to go on vacation.

In case any one is curious, the undercarriage replacement on a 450 is not too bad, most of the parts can be handled by a reasonably strong person with out assistance beyond a couple of come-a-longs and creative rigging. One side I used my pickup truck to pull the old track off and the new track on. Cheated with the other side, truck for the removal, the excavator was there so I used that for the installation.

Everything is big and heavy enough to hurt you, but only few things are big and heavy enough to hurt REALLY bad.

Rick

[fullsizejohn]

I tried for hours to wiggle that s pipe out of the tower support. Absolutely no luck. An experienced JD mechanic told me that the hidden end of the boom hoses are made with o-rings and should seal with just a crows foot inside the tower, not to remove the pipe. I can get one to seal but the other one keeps blowing the o-ring and leaking. Mighty frustrating as i have replaced the o-ring once already.

[boaterri]

The curl steel tubes were not perfectly lined up with the opening in the top of the tower. The steel part of the hose connector presses on the tower so you can not start the thread. Once the steel line was out, the hose threaded on just fine and I could get the assembly in easily. Also, I could use the crow's foot on the first hose of a pair, but there was not enough room once the second hose was installed. Not a problem with the curl but with the lift, I wound the second hose down by hand then put a box wrench on the far end and got another 3/4 turn before the hose started to wind up.

There are two clamps that hold the steel lines one near the top, one lower.


No leaks so far.

[fullsizejohn]

Update...
So i never could get that steel piping out of the tower...
But upon closer inspection i could see just a bit of oring squished out of the fitting up in there. Went by my local JD dealer. Had the guy find the specified oring. So i took off the hose, replaced the oring and just wound the hose as tight as possible( like the old timer mechanic had said ) and just like that its fixed.
Evidently the oring on the hose was just a shade too big and not allowing it to seal.
Ran it all friday afternoon, all good!