450C S#316652

[PNW1020D]

Hey all,

Thought I would post here as well as HEF. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/th ... 50c.82848/

Background story, I picked this old girl up for free about a year ago. Sitting in a field, hadn't ran for 3/4 years. Fixing her up to sell, maybe keep around the farm for a little bit to play with.

Here is a Youtube video I put together of essentially part #1. Right now I am close to having the machine back together, kind of

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2haIkpVmIuk

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STATUS UPDATE:
1) Engine oil pan gasket replaced
2) Front hydraulic pump return and supply lines removed, cleaned, replaced sections as needed
3) Trans sump screen filter element removed, cleaned, new o-rings and gasket installed. Rewired the pyro for the trans (wire was just cut)
4) Fuel tank removed, cleaned, pressure tested, and re-sealed with "Red Kote" and reinstalled
5) Radiator re-cored, hydraulic cooler cleaned, pressure tested, painted for looks core was good. Reinstalled
6) New air filter, fuel filter, engine oil filter, and both hydraulic filters replaced (front trans and in tank)
7) All new hydraulic lines (boom, angle, and tilt cylinders)
8 Re-built tilt cylinder (barrel re-honed, piston polished, seals, packings, etc.)
9) New water pump gaskets (backing plate and pump gasket), new thermostat and gaskets (head and thermostat housing)
10) New v-belt
11) New upper and lower radiator hoses
12) New exhaust manifold and gaskets
13) New Turbo (Airesearch AR70439)
14) New "adapter" for turbo to exhaust
15) New seat back/bottom and armrests

Still lots left to do before I put it up for sale.



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QUESTIONS:

1) This picture would lead me to believe my dozer has had the "common sump" conversion done to it? Correct? Does that mean I can just take my 12 gallons of hydraulic/transmission fluid and pour it into the transmission dipstick/filler hole? Or do I have to "fill" it in other areas? I have only drained the final drives (plug on each side) and the main transmission bolt

2) Final Drive oil change. mg2361 lined me out already, but I just want to make sure I get it. The same fluid goes into the final drives as the steering compartments and the transmission itself (Hygard J20A/C spec)? I have like 20 gallons of the same fluid o_O

3) The wiring has been, well....lots of work. I finally found my serial # and have pretty much dialed in the entire cluster, and everything down stream of the "main wiring plug connector". The technical manual has been really helpful in terms of understanding what is going on. Here is my question...someone cut the wire on the "engine wiring harness" that goes to the injection pump. I was just going to splice the wire and call it good but the thing is the wire terminal in the plastic connector is loose. HOW DO I REMOVE THE WIRE FROM THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR BODY? Most harnesses you just push a flat head screw driver into the connector and the wire terminal will "pop" loose...this isn't happening and I don't want to break the plastic connector body. A whole new harness is like 300 bucks



4) Gauges. Where the hell do I get new gauges? JD wants like 500 bucks for a new oil pressure gauge and another 500 for a tach!!! I found a used tach, water temp gauge, push button start but that is it (all ordered and on the way). I still need the trans temp, oil pressure, and alternator gauge.




Thanks in advance everyone. Def. more questions to follow, specifically on my alternator (what do I have, what do I need) and more wiring.

[77 Ford]

I found one original oil pressure gauge on ebay for 30 dollars a few years back. The rest of my gauges are just Stewart Warner gauges I bought at the local auto parts store. Of course, one of which I just realized is reading poorly.....other than the tach I would just get good after market mechanical gauges. I think you'll have to get a JD tach to stand a chance of getting it to work as it's mechanical connection and gear ratio are probably unique.

I answered your question about the common sump over on HEF because I wanted to correct that information in case someone found it in the future.

Looks like you're doing quality work, good luck and welcome to the boards!

[PNW1020D]

Thank you very much 77 Ford, I appreciate your help and guidance. HEF is legit.

With that being said, should I fill the steering compartments separately even though I have the common sump conversion done? Or can I add everything through the trans filler tube/dipstick? The book says to add approx. 3 gallons to each steering clutch housing. So if I add the proper amount to the trans filler, plus 6 extra gallons I should be golden no?

New "Airesearch" turbo showed up last night!!! I tried to "rebuild" the old one, but it was too far gone. The turbine wheel "shroud" had welded itself to the exhaust housing and the exhaust housing "exit" point was essentially rusted gone.

[77 Ford]

I don't have a common sump machine (yet) but that being said the instructions on the conversion say to lock tite the plugs in there is no practical way at this point to add fluid but thru the transmission. The section of the book that refers to "add 3 gallon to each side" is during the conversion process and you'll have the clutch covers open from the top. I would add fluid, give it a chance to drain over into the steering section, check / fill, repeat as needed.

Without the common sump the total for both steering housing and the transmission is 22 gallons. I would assume you number might be larger as I've heard the common sumps fill above the drain plug that is used to fill the steering housing without the common sump. Maybe someone with first hand knowledge of the common sump conversion will chime in on the total amount you need.

I just realized you said you drained the transmission only. Common sump might still need to drain the steering housing separately as the conversion is very high in the box that lets fluid spill over from the transmission.

I wish my 450c had the turbo , the very early ones (like mine) are not. Keep up the good work !

[PNW1020D]

Thank you very much 77 Ford. I really appreciate the help.

I am so glad I posted and I am so glad you lined me out. I had never drained the steering compartments. I was able to get to it this weekend and holy hell! Literally 2/3 gallons of water came out of each steering housing Plus another 2 gallons of milky horrible hydraulic fluid. Please see the photos below. What I removed are the plugs circled in red. What are the plugs circled in blue for? I didn't remove these? Do I need to?



I was also able to get some work more put in on the old girl over the weekend. Final drives flushed and re-filled. I got the turbo mounted, etc. I bought a new exhaust doughnut, the one that fits in between the turbo exhaust housing and the "elbow fitting R52818". The thing is when I mount the "elbow fitting R52818" onto the exhaust manifold using the three holes in the base, it doesn't seem to mount properly. I am reusing my old "elbow fitting R52818", and the doughnut is really loose between the turbo exhaust housing and the "elbow fitting R52818". Is this normal? Do I need to buy a new "elbow fitting R52818"?



Finally, here is my alternator and the wiring that came on the machine when I got it. Based off of these photos (I cannot find any part # on the alternator) what replacement do I need? Should I buy? Any information or guidance would be greatly appreciated.




Thank you all. More questions to follow for sure!

[77 Ford]

If memory serves me right the blue plugs are part of the steering housing as well, for that little sump area, drain that as well.

I cannot answer your questions about the turbo as I do not have one.

I changed my alternator over to a Delco 10SI one wire alternator for simplicity and never looked back.

[PNW1020D]

Thank you sir! I will drop the two other plugs and see what comes out

I will also look into the alternator you recommended. Does that mean I simply let all the other wires hang loose? Do I have to modify anything at the gauge cluster, etc. to make it work? I'll dig into this.

Ok...another question and I think I already know I made a mistake.....Seems like I am going to have to tear some stuff back off... but I thought I would ask here as well.

When I put everything back together in terms of this pump drive shaft assembly, per JDParts there is supposed to be a roll pin installed? I swear when I removed it I didn't need to remove any roll pin, and I def. didn't put one back in during the re-installation? All I did was remove the 2 c-clips? In my dozer I have the newer shaft assembly, using the "3B" pump driveshaft even though my serial number shows I should have the "older 3A" design. Is the roll pin supposed to go through the shaft coupler, though the shaft, and back out the coupler?

[B Town]

Hello,

Your alternator appears to be an original. If your charging system is non- functioning, I support the self-exciting single wire type. Inexpensive, reliable easy to replace.

The elbow will sit at a very slight angle. It will not line up exactly. The new donut is a great idea, to limit under hood exhaust/carbon. As the donut warms, it swells at a rate faster than the surrounding metals; therefore, sealing up the ends when it reaches operating temperature.


It appears your ump drive is a updated newer version. No roll pill needed, I just run the two external clips.

Best wishes, Bruce

[PNW1020D]

Thank you very much B Town!

The parts diagram in terms of the pump drive shaft was confusing me, but in reality it was more me not looking at it closely enough. Thank you for the clarification.

I will take a photo of my exhaust elbow with the doughnut installed, see what you all think. I already have the new doughnut in hand, but am trying to re-use the old exhaust elbow.

I am sold on charging the alternator to a single wire type.

[PNW1020D]

If memory serves me right the blue plugs are part of the steering housing as well, for that little sump area, drain that as well.

I cannot answer your questions about the turbo as I do not have one.

I changed my alternator over to a Delco 10SI one wire alternator for simplicity and never looked back.

Holy hell! I did what you said and drained the two other plugs....so glad I did. Water and more water. I kept flushing both sides through the trans dipstick filler neck until the fluid ran clear. I plan to re-drain everything once I get the old girl up and running and put her to work a little bit. Thank you 77 Ford!!!

Here are some progress photos from last weekend. Check out my exhaust doughnut. Again it seems pretty loose to me




New seat assembly and armrests installed.


Newly rebuilt tilt cylinder installed and all new hydraulic hoses installed as well throughout the entire machine. Plus lots and lots of fine cleaning.

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So I was able to get the machine to fire and run on Sunday. It was quite the job to get the fuel system bled, but I was able to get it done. Here is what I am dealing with now that I let the machine fire and run for maybe 20 mins or so.....I have an engine oil leak at the oil filter housing. When looking at JD parts it doesn't show any type of gasket between the oil filer housing assembly and the engine block? Does anyone know if there is a gasket in there? And if so, what is the part # for it? IF there isn't supposed to be a gasket, is an RTV product what I should use to seal this off?


Thanks for all the help everyone!

[Jim B]

There is no oil filter housing. The filter mounts direct to the block if there is no engine oil cooler. I think you have an engine oil cooler mounted between the oil filter and block on your engine. Yes it does have a seal washer. It is in the parts catalog, but not with the oil filter. You will need to figure out which cooler is on yours to get the right seal washer. If you clean it good you might find a part number stamped into the housing. Here is a link to the page. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... gId/132137

[PNW1020D]

There is no oil filter housing. The filter mounts direct to the block if there is no engine oil cooler. I think you have an engine oil cooler mounted between the oil filter and block on your engine. Yes it does have a seal washer. It is in the parts catalog, but not with the oil filter. You will need to figure out which cooler is on yours to get the right seal washer. If you clean it good you might find a part number stamped into the housing. Here is a link to the page. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... gId/132137

Thank you very much sir! I didn't think to look there but makes complete sense coolant passing through and all

I couldn't find a part number on it after I tore into it after work today, but looking at JD parts, my engine oil cooler seems to have the pressure relief valve in it so part #R70956 it is!

[PNW1020D]

Update. Check out the link below! Video is from last weekend. I have installed the new amp gauge and hooked the new tach up as well. Both function as they should

I have also installed the hard nose back on the machine, as well as the "fenders" and floorboards. Just need to clean up the hood and re-install the ROPS.

Anyone wanna buy the machine???!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mSsHKBagz4

[77 Ford]

It's looking great, good job.

[LeonardL]

I thought I would point out something of interest. Or at least I found it interesting. Someone took the time to weld on hard surfacing to the heel of each track pad. I would assume they probably did the toes as well but they have since worn off. Not only did they hard surface each pad but they did it in a zigzag pattern. I've done enough hard surfacing to know this took one hell of a lot of time! My hat is truly off to the person who did this.

Besides that you're doing a great job on the machine. Looks like you're doing it right by going through it.