JD 350 Track Adjuster

[Kolot]

Anyone have any experience with replacement track adjusters, piston and rod part. Online they have replacements that most call a PV303, has the bolt up piston and rod but they are configured different as they simply have a pipe plug at the end. Do you have to replace it with grease zerk, or how do these work?

[Jim B]

I have not had hands on one, but my guess is the oversize pipe plug has the grease zerk under it. It protects the zerk from damage.

I believe Lavoy can get replacement adjusters, and I am sure they will be right if he can supply them.

[Kolot]

Anyone know if a 2010 loader would share any undercarriage parts with a 1967 straight 350, or any other parts for that matter?
One just went up for sale near me pretty cheap.

[Jim B]

I think they are like the 2010 Ag tractors in that for all practical purposes the color is about the only thing the same between them. The 1000 and 2000 series tractors had a lot of changes and few parts would fit either the earlier or later machines. Lavoy will likely be a long with a more definitive answer.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I usually put it thusly: The JD 350/450 share about three bolts with the machines which came before them.....

Stan

[Lavoy]

A LATE 2010 has 350 rails, but they would have to be shortened. Bottom rollers may bolt on depending on bolt size. Thats about it.
Lavoy

[Lavoy]

Assuming they are the same as the ones I have sold in the past, the PV303 adjusters work fine.
Lavoy

[Kolot]

I was able to locate a decent track adjuster rod locally from a guy parting out a 350, I had read in the forums that the new style seals can be used on the old style rams if you machined them. Does anyone know what the maching process is, what has to be removed or done? I am told the new cup seal is superior to the old one with the back up ring.

[Lavoy]

The old seal is the cup, the new one is a style of quad ring. The pistons are interchangeable, the cup and quad ring are not. Just replace whatever you have, but be sure to hone the cylinder bore to remove any roughness.
Lavoy

[Kolot]

Thanks Lavoy, will do on the hone. Got to get new stones as mine are shot from other endeavors.

[Kolot]

Well adjuster is rebuilt and new used track is on and tensioned however the chrome rod is really extended in order to tension the old sloppy track. I would guess 4 to 5 inch showing leaving msybe 3" in the piston, is this ok to run?
Someone else suggested machining blocks to mount between tensioner and yoke, overall travel of idler would be the same but done with less stroke of the ram.

[Lavoy]

If you are out of adjuster, your pins and bushings are shot. Any sort of spacer to move the front idler farther out means you are making the decision to run rails to destruction. Same as taking a link out, Band-Aid fix, it's going to really eat up sprockets and bushings.
Lavoy

[Kolot]

Tracks and chains that came on it were shot, bushings worn right through and pins showing. The tracks Im putting on have chains that are worn but bushings are much better but are still worn and loose. Sprockets must have been changed there pretty good. New chains not in the budget right now, need to work this to make sure drive components are worth a set of chains.
Dozer was bought to spead fill then top soil for our house build. Land is already cleared and stumped. Need to strp and pile top soil.

[Lavoy]

Then knock a link out as long as you understand you are buying rails and sprockets in the future, not much to lose.
Lavoy

[Kolot]

Of course new to these dozers, when you say rails do you mean track bars. Why will it destroy the rails? I just likely dont understand the workings unles you mean the links or track chains. What will wear hard and why?
I do undestand loose bushkngs and links will eat the sprockets.