350 Reverser Leak

[AgentChicken152]

Hello,

After repairing the left brake band and the track adjusters on my straight 350, I noticed when pushing brush that I would have power loss, the dozer would stop but the engine was running fine. The reverser oil level was very low so I added quite a bit to it and after a few days, the issue came back. The skid plate has a lot of hydraulic oil on it and it appears to be coming from the pin hole in the bottom of the bell housing so I'm suspecting that the input shaft seal for the reverser has gone out.

Does anyone have an experience repairing or any tips on how to fix it?

Thanks

[Jason37756]

I’ve never had to do this repair myself, but have had a few reversers out for other reasons.

In looking at the tech manual I see a gasket that could be your issue. I would highly recommend buying a tech manual if you don’t already have one.

You will have to pull the engine to access the front of the reverser. From there they’ll be a few things to look at. The input shaft will be sticking out and you’ll see a few sets of bolts. One set is for the pump cover and the other is the reverser cover. They’ll be a gasket behind the reverser cover.

Doesn’t look like a bad job…just getting to it is the real job. Hopefully it’s not anything deeper than this.

Someone with specific experience with this repair will come along shortly and give more detailed advice.

[AgentChicken152]

I have the parts manual and technical manual. I see the gaskets you are referring to. Engine doesn’t sound too bad to pull as long as nothing is stuck bad. I don’t believe there are any other issues with the reverser, occasionally it will shift hard when flipping the reverser. I’ll probably replace a few other things if I do pull the engine.

Thanks for your help

[Jason37756]

The hard shift can be adjusted out via a spring within the control valve.

Removing the bull nose from the crawler is the hardest part on engine removal in my opinion. I always hope the person before me didn’t rebolt everything on it.

Four bolts hold the whole engine on the reverser. I use an 24” extension to get the lower bolts off. I usually remove the lower bolts first due to gravity potentially putting too much weight on the lower part of the reverser housing. The thing will usually rock right out after all the bolts are removed.

Some will leave certain parts connected and others will disconnect everything. Hydraulic pump, radiator, manifold, hydraulic lines, and even the blade. Just depends on how much junk one wants to risk breaking getting it in/out.

I think most folks use a headless bolt/ studs to help with alignment on the reinstall…kinda like reinstalling a final drive.

[AgentChicken152]

I think the bull nose has been off at least once before since the hydraulic pump is missing the disconnect lever so maybe it won't be too much of a pain. I used that method with the alignment bolts to put the final drive back on and it made the assembly a lot easier. I will probably remove everything to be safe, there's a few other things I want to fix while the engine is out like the skid plate bolts and debris build up along the engine sides.

Thank you for the information

[Jason37756]

I had totally forgotten about those disconnect levers…it’s been so long since I saw one I forgot they existed.

Better safe that sorry when pulling a heavy part…broken parts cost time and money.